Beautifully marbled Wagyu beef

Why the World is Wild for Wagyu Beef

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A Deep Dive into Japan’s Legendary Wagyu Beef (Kobe, Matsusaka, Omi)

For food lovers around the globe, the mere mention of “Wagyu” is enough to evoke a sense of awe.
It’s a name synonymous with luxury, unparalleled taste, and often, eye-watering prices – almost a mythical entity in the culinary world.
Its presence graces the menus of high-end restaurants worldwide, and fueled by the recent surge in popularity of Japanese cuisine, its export volume has soared year after year.
In recent times, export values hitting record highs, exceeding 1.4 trillion yen and even surpassing 1.5 trillion yen, clearly demonstrate the explosive growth in demand.

But what is it about Wagyu that makes it so famous and undeniably delicious? And how did specific brands like “Kobe Beef,” “Matsusaka Beef,” and “Omi Beef” achieve their legendary status?
This article aims to demystify Wagyu, uncovering the secrets behind its exquisite taste. We’ll explore what Wagyu truly is, how its quality is determined, delve into the characteristics of the three legendary brands, and even share voices from overseas individuals who have experienced Wagyu firsthand, getting to the heart of its global appeal.

Unlocking Wagyu Beef: More Than Just Japanese Beef

First, let’s clarify what “Wagyu” means.
It doesn’t simply refer to any beef raised in Japan.
While the term literally translates to “Japanese cow,” in a technical sense, “Wagyu” refers only to specific breeds native to Japan and crosses among them.
This is a genetic distinction, not just a geographical label indicating where the cattle were raised.

The Four Special Breeds

Officially recognized as Wagyu Beef, there are four distinct breeds:

  • Japanese Black (Kuroge Washu):
    This is the dominant breed, accounting for over 90% of Wagyu production.
    It’s renowned for its genetic predisposition for the fine, intricate marbling characteristic of Wagyu.
  • Japanese Brown (Akage Washu)
    Primarily raised in prefectures like Kumamoto and Kochi.
    It features more lean meat with moderate marbling.
  • Japanese Shorthorn (Nihon Tankaku Shu)
    Bred mainly in Iwate, Aomori, and Hokkaido.
    Suitable for grazing and known for the rich umami flavor of its lean meat.
  • Japanese Polled (Mukaku Washu)
    Originally from Yamaguchi Prefecture.
    Hornless and characterized by a higher proportion of lean meat.

These breeds were standardized and registered between 1944 and 1957.
The Japanese Black, in particular, is the source of the stunning marbling we often picture when thinking of “Wagyu.”

A Brief History: From Plow to Plate

Historically, Japanese cattle were primarily used as draft animals for farming and transportation.
Eating beef only became common after the Meiji era (post-1868), and the term “Wagyu” emerged to differentiate these native cattle from imported Western breeds.

The evaluation of Wagyu for meat production significantly advanced after World War II.
A movement around 1962, sometimes called the “Wagyu Ishin” (Wagyu Restoration/Reform), was a major turning point, transitioning the role of native cattle from draft animals to specialized meat breeds.
By combining the excellent meat quality (especially the tendency for marbling) of native Wagyu with the growth potential of larger foreign breeds, a uniquely specialized meat cattle breed was developed that stands out globally.
While many countries commonly raise dual-purpose (dairy and beef) breeds, Japan’s dedication to specializing in beef cattle and relentlessly pursuing meat quality improvement has been a key factor in establishing Wagyu’s special status.
This history of intentional breed improvement suggests that Wagyu isn’t just a product of chance but a “culinary work of art” designed to offer the ultimate dining experience.

Understanding the Grading: The Road to A5

Crucial to evaluating Wagyu quality is the grading system established by the Japan Meat Grading Association (JMGA).
This system is primarily composed of two grades:

  • Yield Grade
    Evaluated with the letters A, B, or C. This indicates the proportion of meat yield obtained from a carcass, with A being the highest grade.
  • Quality Grade
    Evaluated with numbers from 1 to 5, with 5 being the highest grade.
    This grade is determined by a comprehensive assessment of the following four factors:
    1. Beef Marbling Standard (B.M.S.):
      This is the degree of marbling, often called “shimofuri” or “sashi.”
      It’s evaluated on a scale from 1 to 12 and has the most significant impact on the Quality Grade.
      To be graded A5, a B.M.S. score of No. 8 or higher is required.
    2. Beef Color and Luster
      Assesses the color and brightness of the meat.
      Standards like the Beef Color Standard (B.C.S.) are used.
    3. Firmness and Texture
      Evaluates the fineness of the meat’s texture and its firmness.
    4. Fat Color, Luster, and Quality
      Assesses the color, brightness, and overall quality of the fat.

It’s important to note that the final Quality Grade is determined by the lowest evaluation among these four factors.
Therefore, the top rank, “A5,” is a designation given only to beef that achieves both a high Yield Grade (A) and the highest evaluation (5) in all four meat quality factors.

This grading process is performed visually by expert graders at the carcass stage (after slaughter, with skin, bones, and organs removed) and is not based on taste.
The strong emphasis on marbling (fat intermingling) within these criteria indicates that Japan’s Wagyu grading system highly values the visual beauty of fat distribution and the texture and flavor it imparts.
While this is why A5 is often treated as the ultimate Wagyu, it also means that for those who prefer the taste of lean meat, A5 might not necessarily be the absolute indicator of “deliciousness.”

The Secret to Supreme Deliciousness: Why Wagyu Beef Tastes So Good

The reason Wagyu captivates people worldwide lies in its unique texture and flavor. It’s a culmination of science and the craftsmanship honed by Japanese cattle farmers.

The Art of Marbling (Shimofuri)

Wagyu’s most defining characteristic, and a key to its deliciousness, is the “marbling” (shimofuri) or “sashi”—the fine, intricate network of fat woven within the muscle fibers.
This isn’t just a high quantity of fat, but rather fat that is uniformly and finely dispersed throughout the muscle.
This delicate network of fat is what gives the meat its astonishing tenderness and juiciness.

Japanese Black cattle, among others, are genetically predisposed to develop this kind of marbling.
The mechanism is complex, involving both genetic factors and the raising environment, but it’s believed that high-quality feed and a low-stress environment promote the formation of this delicate fat.

A Melt-in-Your-Mouth Miracle

The first thing many people notice when tasting Wagyu is its “melt-in-your-mouth” texture.
This magical phenomenon has a scientific basis: Wagyu fat has a significantly lower melting point compared to fat in typical beef.

For example, the melting point of Matsusaka beef fat is reported to be around 17°C (63°F), sometimes even as low as 13-14°C (55-57°F), and Kobe beef fat melts at similarly low temperatures.
This is remarkably low when compared to the typical melting point of beef fat, which is around 25-30°C (77-86°F).
Because of this, Wagyu fat begins to melt at human body temperature (the temperature of your tongue), creating a smooth, non-greasy texture akin to butter.

The secret to this low melting point lies in the composition of the fatty acids.
Wagyu fat is known to be rich in monounsaturated fatty acids (MUFAs), such as oleic acid.
Oleic acid has a low melting point and is thought to contribute to the meat’s melt-in-your-mouth quality and enhanced flavor.

A Symphony of Flavor and Aroma

Wagyu’s appeal isn’t just about texture.
Its complex and rich flavor and aroma are also factors that captivate people.

  • Umami :
    Wagyu is rich in umami components like amino acids (such as glutamate) and nucleotides (such as inosinate).
    The high fat content also seems to amplify the perception of these umami flavors.
    Furthermore, the abundance of oleic acid itself is suggested to stimulate the sensations of umami and sweetness.
  • Wagyu Aroma (和牛香 – Wagyu-ko)
    When heated, Wagyu releases a unique, sweet, and fragrant aroma.
    This is called “Wagyu Aroma” and is sometimes described as having notes of coconut or peach.
    This aroma is produced by components in the Wagyu fat that change when heated.
    It’s most strongly felt around 80°C (176°F), making cooking methods like Sukiyaki and Shabu-Shabu particularly suitable for experiencing the Wagyu aroma.
  • Sweetness:
    Wagyu is often described as having a “sweet” flavor.
    This is believed to be the result of the Wagyu aroma combined with the inherent sweetness of the high-quality fat itself.

Thus, Wagyu’s “deliciousness” isn’t a single factor but a complex symphony resulting from the interaction of multiple elements: genetic predisposition, the quantity and quality of fat (low melting point, abundant oleic acid), fine marbling, the unique Wagyu aroma, and umami components.

Cultivated, Not Just Raised: The Hand of Human Skill

Wagyu’s outstanding quality is supported not only by nature’s bounty but also by the years of experience and dedicated effort of Japanese cattle farmers.

  • Bloodline Management
    Rigorous selection of superior breeding bulls and thorough bloodline management are carried out to produce excellent meat quality.
  • Feed
    Cattle are given special feed formulated to their growth stage and health condition, including rice straw, grass, and grains.
    Some farmers are even said to give them beer to stimulate appetite.
  • Long-Term Feeding
    Wagyu cattle are fed for a significantly longer period than typical beef cattle (over 600-700 days, compared to around 120 days for common US beef).
    This extended period is crucial for allowing fat to infiltrate the muscle fibers and transform into high-quality fat with a low melting point.
  • Raising Environment
    Meticulous care is taken to create a clean and comfortable environment to minimize stress on the cattle.
    With an average of only 34 head per farm, individual attention to each animal is possible.
    Brushing or massaging the cattle (sometimes exaggerated, but rooted in care) is a technique aimed at promoting blood circulation and relaxation to achieve better meat quality.

In this way, the subjectively described “melt-in-your-mouth” texture and unique flavor of Wagyu are supported by measurable scientific properties such as low fat melting point, oleic acid content, and unique aromatic compounds.
This demonstrates that the deliciousness of Wagyu is not merely a matter of perception but is based on its unique biological and chemical composition.

Meeting the Legends: Kobe Beef, Matsusaka Beef, Omi Beef

Among Wagyu, the most famous are the brands known as the “Three Great Wagyu.”
These are designations given to beef that meets standards set by their respective production associations regarding specific regions, breeds, grading, and raising methods.
While “Kobe Beef,” “Matsusaka Beef,” and “Omi Beef” are generally considered the Three Great Wagyu, the third slot isn’t officially fixed, and others like Yonezawa Beef, which has seen quality improvements in recent years, are sometimes mentioned.
Here, we will take a closer look at these three most widely recognized brands.

Kobe Beef – The Globally Recognized Icon

  • Origin
    Hyogo Prefecture.
  • Lineage and Criteria
    The absolute condition is that it must be from purebred “Tajima-ushi” cattle raised in Hyogo Prefecture.
    Only Tajima cattle that meet even stricter standards are certified as “Kobe Beef.”
    Specifically, rigorous criteria include a Yield Grade of A or B, a Quality Grade of 4 or 5, a B.M.S. value of No.6 or higher, and carcass weight within specified ranges (female 230-470kg, steer 260-470kg).
    Verification through bloodline certification and DNA testing is also conducted.
    The certifying body is the Kobe Beef Marketing & Distribution Promotion Association.
  • History and Fame
    It gained international fame early on through Kobe, which was a port city open to foreigners.
    It’s known as one of the world’s most expensive foods alongside caviar and foie gras and is famous for being requested by former President Obama during his visit to Japan.
  • Taste and Texture
    Characterized by “sashi” (marbling), which is finely distributed fat within the lean meat (particularly delicate marbling is called “kozashi”).
    The low melting point of the fat results in a melt-in-your-mouth texture and rich aroma.
    The balance between the umami of the lean meat itself and the sweetness of the fat is excellent, often described as elegant and refined.
  • Recommended Ways to Eat
    Sukiyaki and Shabu-Shabu are highly recommended to savor its tenderness.
    For steak (especially Teppanyaki), simple seasoning like salt and pepper is best to enjoy the meat’s inherent flavor.
  • Official Source:
    Kobe Beef Marketing & Distribution Promotion Association official website.

Matsusaka Beef – The Queen of Rich and Refined Flavor

  • Origin
    Mie Prefecture, particularly the region centered around Matsusaka City.
  • Lineage and Criteria
    It must be Japanese Black cattle, and the defining characteristic is that it must be a virgin female cow.
    Registration in the Matsusaka Beef Individual Identification Management System and the longest and final feeding period within the designated production area are required.
    While there’s no Quality Grade requirement for standard Matsusaka Beef, the highest grade, “Special Grade Matsusaka Beef,” requires introducing a calf from Hyogo Prefecture, long-term feeding for over 900 days, and achieving an A5 or B5 grade.
  • History and Fame
    Became famous slightly later than Kobe and Omi beef, around the Taisho era.
    Its reputation spread through visitors to Ise Jingu shrine.
    The image of careful, long-term feeding, including feeding beer and massaging, has become well-established.
    In Japan, some voices rate it even higher than Kobe Beef.
    It’s also known for its high prices.
  • Taste and Texture
    Characterized by exceptionally fine and beautiful marbling, often called “the art of meat.”
    Its melt-in-your-mouth quality comes from its incredible tenderness (can be cut with chopsticks) and fat with a low melting point (around 17°C/63°F) that melts at body temperature.
    The “Wagyu Aroma” when heated is particularly sweet and elegant, described as having deep richness.
    The balance between the sweetness of the fat and the condensed umami of the lean meat is exquisite. It’s rich in oleic acid.
  • Recommended Ways to Eat
    Steak is highly recommended to best enjoy its rich flavor and melting texture.
    In Sukiyaki or Shabu-Shabu, its high-quality fat’s sweetness and tenderness also stand out.
  • Official Source:
    Matsusaka City official website, Matsusaka Beef Council.

Omi Beef – The Delicate Flavor with the Oldest History

  • Origin
    Shiga Prefecture, surrounding Lake Biwa, Japan’s largest lake.
  • Lineage and Criteria
    Must be Japanese Black cattle and raised for the longest period in Shiga Prefecture.
    High-quality ones are certified as “Certified Omi Beef,” with A4/B4 grade or higher as a guideline.
    It is also registered under the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries’ Geographical Indication (GI) Protection System, legally protecting its brand value.
  • History and Fame
    Considered the oldest brand of Wagyu in Japan, with a history dating back over 400 years.
    Even during the Edo period when beef consumption was not common, it was processed into miso-pickled form and presented to the shogunate (there are records of it being served by Toyotomi Hideyoshi) as medicine.
  • Taste and Texture
    The meat quality is fine-grained, and the fat is sometimes described as having a unique “stickiness.”
    It is characterized by a rich aroma and prominent fat sweetness.
    The fat has a good melt-in-the-mouth quality, and the aftertaste is said to be relatively clean.
    Overall, it is described as having a mellow and deep umami flavor.
  • Recommended Ways to Eat
    Because it is very tender, it pairs excellently with hot pot dishes that allow the meat to melt, such as Shabu-Shabu and Sukiyaki.
    For steak, grilling to rare and seasoning simply with salt and pepper, or with lighter options like soy sauce-based sauces or grated daikon radish with ponzu, also works well.
    It is often enjoyed in hot pot dishes locally.
    Yakiniku (Japanese BBQ) is also recommended.
  • Official Source: “Omi Beef” Production and Distribution Promotion Council.

The brand power of these three great Wagyu isn’t just about the meat quality; it’s also shaped by their respective historical backgrounds, strict production standards, and the stories passed down through generations.
Kobe Beef’s international recognition is rooted in its early contact with foreigners and strict standards, Matsusaka Beef’s luxurious image is supported by its unique “virgin female only” rule and legends of special raising methods, and Omi Beef’s value is upheld by its long history and tradition.

FeatureKobe Beef Matsusaka BeefOmi Beef
PrefectureHyogo PrefectureMie PrefectureShiga Prefecture
Main DefinitionPure Tajima cattle lineage, strict grading standardsVirgin female cows only, raised in Matsusaka regionLongest raising period in Shiga, oldest history
Typical GradeA4/B4 or A5/B5 (BMS No.6+)No grade defined (Standard), A5/B5 (Special Grade)A4/B4 or higher (Certified Omi Beef)
Flavor ProfileWell-balanced, elegant, fine marbling (sashi)Rich sweetness, intense melt, exceptional fat qualityDelicate and fragrant fat, deep umami
Notable PointsInternational recognition, strict standardsVirgin female only, low fat melting pointOldest history, Lake Biwa environment, GI certification
Recommended Cook.Sukiyaki, Shabu-Shabu, Teppanyaki (Steak)Steak, SukiyakiSukiyaki, Shabu-Shabu, Steak (Rare), Yakiniku

As this table shows, there is no single “best” Wagyu.
Kobe Beef offers a refined balance, Matsusaka Beef presents overwhelming richness, and Omi Beef boasts a delicate umami backed by deep history.
Each has its own personality, and the choice of brand depends on individual preference and how you want to enjoy the meat.

“Unforgettable,” “Buttery,” “Worth the Price?”: Wagyu Seen from Overseas

Wagyu’s reputation now extends far beyond Japan’s borders, reaching across the globe.
What are the impressions of people from overseas who have actually experienced Wagyu?

A Chorus of Praise: Shared Moments of Awe

Common themes in numerous reviews are the amazement at its incredible texture and flavor.
Phrases like “melt-in-your-mouth,” “buttery,” “tender,” “juicy,” “flavorful,” “rich,” and “sweet aroma/flavor” abound.

Many reviewers state it’s the “best beef/steak I’ve ever had.”
One reviewer described Australian Wagyu as tasting “like it was marinated and cooked in butter, and then butter was put on top,” expressing surprise that no butter was actually used.
Another reviewer called Kobe Beef “unbelievably juicy” and “like beef butter,” expressing astonishment at its melting texture.

Voices from the Table: Specific Experiences

Reviews offer insights not just into the taste but also the entire dining experience surrounding Wagyu.

  • The Appeal of Teppanyaki
    The style where a chef cooks right in front of you on a hot iron plate seems particularly popular.
    The chef’s skill, beautiful presentation, and accompaniments like garlic chips are appreciated for the sensory entertainment they provide.
  • Discovering Cooking Methods
    One reviewer shared their discovery that ordering Kobe Beef medium-rare felt slightly tough, suggesting that medium-well or above might be better to sufficiently melt the fat (a potentially counterintuitive finding).
    This is an interesting perspective for understanding the characteristics of Wagyu fat.
  • Simple Seasoning
    Many people tend to prefer simple seasonings like salt, pepper, and wasabi to maximize the meat’s inherent flavor.

These anecdotes suggest that experiencing Wagyu Beef is more than just eating meat; it’s an event. Especially at high-end restaurants, the value seems to be judged on the entire “experience,” including the chef’s performance, the ambiance, attentive service, and sometimes even information about the cattle’s lineage.
This overall “experience” may be one factor that justifies the high price point.

The Price Barrier: Is It Worth the Value?

Discussing Wagyu inevitably brings up its price.
There are multiple reasons why Wagyu is expensive, particularly outside of Japan.
First, its production involves significant costs.
This includes strict bloodline management and breeding, special feed, a much longer fattening period than regular beef cattle, meticulous care and small-scale farming to minimize stress, and Japan’s high labor costs.
Additionally, strict quality control and traceability systems, as well as export costs like transportation, tariffs, and import quotas, further drive up the price.
This high price itself also positions Wagyu as a “luxury good,” creating special anticipation and increasing its perceived rarity and value.

Your Guide to a Wagyu Experience

Having read this far, your interest in Wagyu may have deepened.
If you’re considering trying Wagyu yourself, where and how is the best way to experience it?

Where to Taste: Japan vs. Overseas

  • In Japan
    Experiencing it close to the production area is highly recommended.
    In and around Kobe, Matsusaka, and Omi (Shiga), you may find fresh Wagyu available at relatively reasonable prices.
    Of course, major cities like Tokyo, Osaka, and Kyoto also boast numerous excellent restaurants offering various brand Wagyu.
    However, you don’t necessarily need a famous brand like Kobe, Matsusaka, or Omi; you can find incredibly delicious Wagyu at many local steakhouses or yakiniku restaurants labeled simply “Wagyu Beef.”
  • Overseas
    Wagyu Beef is offered at high-end restaurants abroad, but you need to be cautious about authenticity and price.
    Note that Matsusaka Beef, in particular, is currently said to be unavailable outside of Japan.

Choosing Your Style: Teppanyaki, Yakiniku, Sukiyaki, Shabu-Shabu

Wagyu is enjoyed in various styles:

  • Teppanyaki
    A style where the chef cooks on an iron plate in front of you.
    Ideal for steak cuts, offering an enjoyable cooking spectacle.
  • Yakiniku
    Japanese-style BBQ.
    You grill thin slices of meat yourself, suitable for trying various cuts.
  • Sukiyaki
    A hot pot dish where beef and vegetables are simmered in a sweet and savory broth (warishita).
    It’s commonly eaten dipped in raw egg. Excellent for enjoying the tenderness of Kobe or Omi beef.
  • Shabu-Shabu
    A hot pot dish where thin slices of meat are briefly swished in boiling broth (often kombu dashi).
    Lighter than Sukiyaki, allowing you to savor the meat’s delicate flavor and tenderness.

Spotting the Real Deal: Signs of Trust

Since Wagyu is expensive, you’ll want to ensure you’re getting the real thing.

  • Certified Stores / Certificates
    Especially for Kobe Beef, look for designated registered stores marked with a bronze statue or certification.
  • Traceability
    Each brand has systems to guarantee authenticity, such as the Tajima cattle bloodline certification system and DNA testing for Kobe Beef, the individual identification management system for Matsusaka Beef, and the GI mark for Omi Beef.
    Across Japan, each cattle is assigned a 10-digit individual identification number registered along with its nose print, allowing tracking.
  • Be Cautious about Labeling
    Especially overseas, be wary of misleading labels like “Wagyu style” or unfounded advertising claims.
    Authentic Japanese Wagyu, due to its quality and rarity, is rarely offered cheaply.

Navigating the Wagyu market wisely helps ensure you get the experience you expect for the price.
Knowing about the breeds, grading, brand definitions, and how to identify authenticity increases your chances of a satisfying experience.

Consulting Your Budget: Smart Ways to Enjoy

While Wagyu is a luxury item, you can enjoy it within your budget with some planning.

  • Aim for Lunch
    Many restaurants offer lunch sets at more affordable prices than dinner.
  • Choose Different Cuts
    Besides prime cuts like sirloin or fillet, selecting cuts like rump, chuck roll, or even “kiriochi” (odd-shaped pieces) can lower the price.
    Yakiniku restaurants often offer platters with various cuts.
  • Options Beyond Steak
    While steak is expensive, you can still enjoy the flavor of Wagyu in dishes like Wagyu hamburger steaks, gyudon (beef bowl), croquettes, or shigureni (simmered beef).

The Enduring Appeal of Wagyu

There are clear reasons why Wagyu is so loved and sought after worldwide.
It’s a combination of the excellent genetic predisposition of Japan’s native cattle, the artistic and scientific mastery of marbling techniques, the miraculous melt-in-your-mouth texture created by low-melting-point fat, and the unique aroma known as Wagyu Aroma and deep umami.
All of this is supported by the long-standing passion and dedication of Japanese cattle farmers.

Wagyu is more than just an ingredient; it’s a culinary culture and recognized globally as one of the ultimate gourmet experiences.
Its price is certainly not low, but for many, it’s an investment in an unforgettable, special moment.

If you have the opportunity, please try authentic Wagyu at least once.
Whether it’s the global icon Kobe Beef, the rich-flavored Matsusaka Beef, the delicate taste with a long history of Omi Beef, or any of the countless other excellent brand Wagyu, one bite is sure to show you why the world is wild for Wagyu.


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