Deeply rooted in Japanese culture and history, sake has captivated people around the world with its delicate flavors and profound appeal. While the sheer variety of sake types and brewing methods might seem a bit complex to newcomers, there’s no need to worry. This article will unravel the world of sake in an easy-to-understand way, showcasing its magical charm. So, let’s embark on a journey into the world of sake together.
When choosing sake, you might encounter terms like “Daiginjo” or “Ginjo”. These words indicate the grade of the sake. These grades are primarily determined by a metric called the “rice polishing ratio” (seimai buai).
The rice polishing ratio represents the percentage of the rice grain remaining after the outer layers have been milled away. For example, a sake with a rice polishing ratio of 60% means that 40% of the original brown rice has been polished away.
This polishing process is carried out to remove components in the outer layers of the rice that can cause unwanted flavors (zatsumi). The lower the rice polishing ratio (the more the rice is polished), the more refined the sake is considered to be.
It’s worth noting the term “rice milling rate” (seihaku ritsu), which indicates the percentage of rice that has been removed. This is the opposite of the rice polishing ratio.
The extent to which the rice is polished significantly impacts the flavor and aroma of the sake. Generally, sake with a lower rice polishing ratio (more polished rice) tends to have a fruity and floral aroma with a clean and crisp taste. This is because the lipids in the outer layers of the rice inhibit the synthesis of fruity aromas.
On the other hand, sake with a higher rice polishing ratio (less polished rice) often has a richer flavor with a noticeable umami and sweetness from the rice itself.
The current sake grading system is based on this rice polishing ratio and the ingredients used (whether it’s made only from rice, rice koji, and water, or if brewer’s alcohol has been added). Here are the main grades and their characteristics:
Junmai Daiginjo Made with only rice, rice koji, and water, with a rice polishing ratio of 50% or less. It is characterized by a delicate and fruity aroma, a refined and clean taste, and the natural sweetness and umami of the rice.
Daiginjo Made with rice, rice koji, water, and a small amount of brewer’s alcohol, with a rice polishing ratio of 50% or less. It has a rich fruity aroma, and the addition of brewer’s alcohol tends to make it lighter and crisper.
Junmai Ginjo Made with only rice, rice koji, and water, with a rice polishing ratio of 60% or less. It offers a balanced combination of the fruity aroma characteristic of Ginjo sake and the rich flavor and umami of Junmai sake.
Ginjo Made with rice, rice koji, water, and a small amount of brewer’s alcohol, with a rice polishing ratio of 60% or less. It is known for its fruity and floral aroma (ginjo-ka) and generally has a light and easy-to-drink taste.
Junmai-shu Made with only rice, rice koji, and water, with no specific rice polishing ratio requirement. It features the rich flavor and umami inherent in rice, with a wide range of tastes from dry and crisp to rich and sweet.
Tokubetsu Junmai-shu A type of Junmai-shu that either has a rice polishing ratio of 60% or less or is made using a special brewing method. These sakes often have more unique flavors and characteristics than regular Junmai-shu.
Honjozo-shu Made with rice, rice koji, water, and a slightly larger amount of brewer’s alcohol than Ginjo sake, with a rice polishing ratio of 70% or less. It is characterized by a clean and dry taste and is enjoyed as an everyday sake that you won’t tire of drinking.
Tokubetsu Honjozo-shu A type of Honjozo-shu with a rice polishing ratio of 60% or less, or made using a special brewing method, and with particularly good aroma and appearance. It offers a more refined flavor and aroma than regular Honjozo.
While the rice polishing ratio is a significant factor in determining the taste of sake, it’s not the only one. The type and quality of rice, the type of yeast, and above all, the skill and passion of the “Toji”, the master sake brewer, all contribute to the profound world of sake.
Raw rice in a wooden box
The Art of Sake Brewing: The Transformation from Rice to Alcohol
The sake brewing process begins with the selection of rice and is carefully carried out by skilled artisans. Each step embodies the delicate techniques and wisdom unique to sake brewing.
Raw Rice Processing (Genryoumai-syori)
Rice Polishing (Seimai) Brown rice is polished using a rice milling machine to achieve the desired rice polishing ratio. The polished rice generates heat, so it undergoes a cooling period called “Karashi”.
Rice Washing (Senmai) The polished white rice is carefully washed to remove any remaining bran.
Steeping (Shinseki) The washed rice is soaked in water to absorb the appropriate amount of moisture. The soaking time can be managed down to the second depending on the rice type and polishing ratio.
Steaming (Mushimai) The soaked rice is steamed, not boiled. Steaming gelatinizes the rice starch, which promotes saccharification by the koji mold. The ideal state is “Gaikounainan” – hard on the outside and soft on the inside.
Cooling (Huorei): The steamed rice is cooled to the appropriate temperature for koji making, yeast starter preparation, and fermentation mash preparation.
Koji Making (Koji-zukuri) This is the process of propagating koji mold (kōji-kin) on the steamed rice. Koji mold produces enzymes that break down the rice starch into sugars like glucose. This process takes about 2-3 days under strict temperature and humidity control.
Yeast Starter Preparation (Shubo-zukuri or Moto-zukuri) This step involves cultivating a large amount of yeast to create the “Shubo”or “Moto”, which serves as the foundation for sake brewing. Yeast is added to koji, steamed rice, and water for cultivation. Lactic acid plays a crucial role in suppressing the growth of unwanted bacteria. There are different methods for making the yeast starter, such as Sokujo-moto, Kimoto , and Yamahai-moto.
Moromi Fermentation (Moromi-zukuri) More steamed rice (kake-mai), koji, and water are added to the yeast starter to begin the main alcoholic fermentation. This is typically done in three stages, a method called “Sandan-jikomi”. Within the “Moromi” mash, a complex fermentation process unique to sake called “Parallel Multiple Fermentation” (heikou fukuhakkou) occurs, where saccharification by koji and alcoholic fermentation by yeast proceed simultaneously. The fermentation period lasts about 2-5 weeks, and temperature control is vital.
Pressing (Joso) / Filtration (Shibori) Once fermentation is complete, the moromi is pressed to separate the liquid sake from the solid sake lees (kasu). Pressing methods include automatic pressing machines, traditional pressing machines called “Fune”, and the “Bag Hanging” method.
Filtration (Roka) The pressed sake still contains fine solids, so it is filtered to increase its clarity.
Pasteurization (Hiire) / Storage (Chozo) The filtered sake is usually pasteurized (heated) to stabilize its quality. Sake that is not pasteurized is called “Namazake” or raw sake. After pasteurization, the sake is stored in tanks to mature. The storage period is typically around six months to a year.
Through these intricate processes, the sake that reaches our glasses is truly a work of art, crafted from rice, water, and the passion of skilled artisans.
Important steps in sake brewing: The master brewer mixes the steamed rice with koji
The Relationship Between Water and Sake: The Source that Influences Flavor
Water makes up about 80% of sake, and its quality is one of the most critical factors influencing the taste of sake. Two types of water are mainly used in sake brewing: “Shikomi-mizu” or brewing water, and “Wari-mizu” or dilution water.
Brewing water is used in all stages of brewing, from washing the rice to the fermentation of the moromi. Dilution water is added to the unpasteurized sake after fermentation to adjust the alcohol content.
The “hardness” (kōdo) of the water, which indicates the amount of mineral content, significantly affects the flavor of sake. Sake brewed with “soft water” (nansui), which has low mineral content, tends to be mellow, soft, and slightly sweet. On the other hand, sake brewed with “hard water” (kousui), which has high mineral content, tends to ferment more vigorously and often results in a crisp and dry taste. “Medium-hard water” (chuukousui) with a hardness of 60-120 mg/L has properties between soft and hard water.
Japan’s Sake Regions: Individuality Cultivated by Water
Japan has many sake-producing regions, each with its own distinct climate, terroir, and water quality. The unique characteristics of the water in each region are strongly reflected in the flavor of the sake produced there.
Nada (Hyogo Prefecture) Has a relatively warm climate with cold winters suitable for sake brewing. The brewing water, “Miyamizu”, is a hard water rich in minerals but low in iron. This water quality is said to result in Nada’s sake being generally powerful, rich, and dry (“Otoko-zake” – “man’s sake”). Many major sake breweries, such as Hakutsuru, Kikumasamune, and Sawanotsuru, are based in Nada.
Fushimi (Kyoto Prefecture) Has a climate with significant temperature differences between day and night, typical of a basin. The brewing water, “Gokosui”, is a medium-hard water with a moderate mineral content. This water quality tends to make Fushimi’s sake delicate, smooth, and slightly sweet (“Onna-zake” – “woman’s sake”). Famous breweries include Gekkeikan, Kizakura, and Tamanohikari.
NiigataPrefecture A heavy snowfall area in winter, the snowmelt provides abundant soft water. Sake brewed with this soft water is generally “Tanrei Karakuchi” – light and dry, with a clean taste. Niigata Prefecture has the largest number of sake breweries in Japan, and brands like Kubota, Hakkaisan, and Koshinohomare are known nationwide.
HiroshimaPrefecture Facing the Seto Inland Sea, it has a relatively warm climate. The water is mainly soft, and while once considered unsuitable for sake brewing, the development of soft water brewing techniques has led to the creation of sake with unique flavors. Many are soft on the palate, fragrant, and finely textured. Famous brands include Kamotsuru, Kamoizumi, and Ugonotsuki. Saijo in Hiroshima is one of Japan’s three major sake brewing regions, along with Nada and Fushimi.
AkitaPrefecture Has cold and snowy winters, ideal for low-temperature sake brewing. The water is generally soft. This soft water and long, low-temperature fermentation produce sake with a mellow and elegant mouthfeel. Well-known brands include Aramasa, Yukinobousha, and Yukino Bijin.
YamaguchiPrefecture Surrounded by the sea on three sides, it has a relatively warm climate. The water is mainly soft, but some areas have medium-hard water. Sake brewed with soft water tends to be highly aromatic and finely textured. Dassai, Toyo Bijin, and Karaki are nationally famous.
NaganoPrefecture A highland region with harsh winters. The water is mainly soft to medium-hard, including snowmelt from the Japanese Alps. The flavors range from light and dry to rich and sweet. Famous brands include Masumi, Shinshu Kirei, and Mikotsuru.
FukushimaPrefecture Has distinct four seasons, with a climate suitable for rice cultivation and sake brewing. The water is mainly soft, with abundant high-quality water sources. Many sakes have fruity and rich flavors. Popular brands include Hiroki, Syaraku, and Hirotogawa.
SaitamaPrefecture Has an inland climate with hot summers and cold winters. The water is mainly soft, sourced from the underground water of the Chichibu Mountains and the Arakawa and Tone Rivers. Many sakes have a mellow and gentle flavor. Well-known brands include Hanayagura, Kinkame, and Kagamiyama.
YamagataPrefecture Belongs to the Sea of Japan climate zone, with abundant winter snowfall that becomes high-quality soft water suitable for sake brewing. The cold climate is ideal for long, low-temperature fermentation, and the production of Ginjo sake is thriving. Many sakes have a soft and transparent quality, earning it the nickname “Ginjo Kingdom”. Famous brands include Juyondai, Dewazakura, and Kudoki Jozu.
Sake is a profound drink that reveals different expressions depending on its temperature and the serving vessel. Here are some tips to maximize your enjoyment:
Temperature Sake can be enjoyed chilled (“Reishu”), at room temperature (“Hiya”), or warmed (“Kan”). Generally, fragrant Ginjo and Daiginjo sake are best enjoyed chilled, while Junmai and Honjozo sake with rich rice flavors are recommended at room temperature or warmed. Be careful not to overheat sake, as it can cause the aroma to dissipate.
Serving Vessels The type of sake cup also affects the taste. For appreciating the aroma, a glass with a narrow opening, like a wine glass, is suitable. For enjoying the overall flavor, “Ochoko” or “Guinomi” cups are good choices. A traditional “Masu” cup, made of cedar, imparts a unique woody flavor to the sake.
Food Pairing Sake is an excellent drink to enjoy with meals and pairs well with a variety of dishes. Generally, light-bodied sake goes well with sashimi, sushi, and vinegared dishes that highlight the natural flavors of the ingredients. On the other hand, rich and full-bodied sake complements dishes with stronger flavors, such as yakitori, simmered dishes, and hot pots.
Sake is a captivating drink that becomes more fascinating the more you learn about its intricate world. From the rice polishing ratio to the meticulous brewing process, and the diverse flavors nurtured by regional water and climate, there’s so much to discover.
Use this article as a starting point to explore the world of sake. You’re sure to find a bottle that perfectly suits your preferences and mood.
So, why not visit your local liquor store or a sake bar and discover your own “magic of sake”?
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