Onigiri: A Timeless Story of Love and Rice Balls

Onigiri, Japan’s Comforting Soul Food

When you hear the word “onigiri,” what comes to mind?
Perhaps it’s fluffy, warm rice, crisp nori seaweed, and a delightful hidden filling.
More than just a food item, onigiri symbolizes Japanese food culture and, for many Japanese, it’s a “soul food” that deeply resonates.
As one person eloquently put it, “Onigiri is so beloved by the Japanese people, you could say it’s their very soul.”
This simple food possesses a special power that connects profoundly with our hearts.You’ll find onigiri everywhere: lining the shelves of bustling city convenience stores and gracing the tables of grandmothers who lovingly prepare them in the countryside.
Yet, within this everyday presence lies a condensation of the Japanese people’s long-cultivated passion for food and the warm connections between people.
Why does this humble rice ball captivate our hearts so enduringly?
In this article, we’ll unravel the long history of onigiri, explore its profound charm, and discover why it continues to be cherished by the Japanese.

The reasons onigiri is called “soul food” go beyond mere taste or convenience; they delve into a deep cultural psyche.
It’s an entity that speaks to the collective memory, cultural identity, and sometimes even the spiritual comfort of the Japanese people.
When you think about it, the basic composition of onigiri is remarkably simple: rice, salt, and a small filling.
Yet, this very simplicity might be what makes onigiri so special.
Like a blank canvas, it allows the creator’s feelings, love, and the eater’s preferences and memories to be freely expressed.
The act of choosing a filling for someone and shaping the rice with care elevates onigiri from mere sustenance to a special dish imbued with warm feelings.

2. The History of Onigiri: How Long Have We Been Eating Them?

The history of onigiri is ancient, tracing back to an era that could be considered the very origin of Japanese food culture.
This long history is one reason why onigiri is so deeply rooted in the Japanese heart.

• Yayoi to Nara Periods (c. 300 BCE – 794 CE): The Dawn of Onigiri
  The oldest trace of onigiri in Japan is a “chimaki-like carbonized rice clump” discovered in ruins from the mid-Yayoi period, about 2,000 years ago.
  Found at the Sugitani Chanobatake site in former Kashinishi Town (now Nakanoto Town), Ishikawa Prefecture, this rice clump is thought to have been made by steaming, compacting, and then possibly grilling glutinous rice – a true prototype of onigiri.
  This discovery suggests that Japanese people have been processing rice into portable forms since ancient times.
  
  The first written mention of onigiri appears in the Hitachi no Kuni Fudoki, a regional gazette compiled during the Nara period (710-794 CE).
  It contains the term “nigiri-ii” (握飯), which is considered the oldest existing description related to onigiri.
  This indicates that the custom of pressing rice into a shape for eating was already established.
  
• Heian Period (794-1185 CE): “Tonjiki” and Aristocratic Food Culture
  In the Heian period, a food called “tonjiki” emerged.
  This was typically glutinous rice steamed and shaped like a chicken egg, served to lower-ranking officials and guests at aristocratic banquets.
  It was also apparently called “torinoko”, meaning “bird’s egg,” due to its shape.
  
  The Tale of Genji, often considered the world’s oldest novel, written by Murasaki Shikibu, features “tonjiki” in the scene of the protagonist Hikaru Genji’s coming-of-age ceremony.
  This illustrates that a prototype of onigiri existed even within the aristocratic society of the time.
  Tonjiki from this era may also have been linked to Shinto rituals and ceremonies, holding special significance.
  
• Kamakura to Sengoku Periods (1185-1590 CE): Fuel for Warriors
  As time progressed and the samurai class rose to power, from the Kamakura period to the Sengoku (Warring States) period, onigiri’s role transformed significantly.
  It shifted from a ceremonial food to a practical “hyōrō” – portable rations for samurai.
  
  Around this time, the type of rice used also changed.
  While glutinous rice was primarily used until the Heian period, by the end of the Kamakura period, “uruchimai” (the ordinary white rice we eat today) became the main ingredient.
  Furthermore, to improve preservation, fillings like umeboshi (pickled plums) and miso (fermented soybean paste) began to be added during this era.
  Umeboshi, in particular, with its sterilizing effects and fatigue-recovery properties, was highly valued as battlefield provisions.
  
  It’s said that “kensa-yaki” (or “Kenshin-yaki”) – round, grilled onigiri coated with miso, supposedly eaten by the warlord Uesugi Kenshin as rations – originated in this period.
  This could be one of the roots of grilled onigiri, reflecting efforts to consume something warm and nutritious in the harsh conditions of the battlefield.
  
• Edo Period (1603-1867 CE): A Taste for the Common People, A Traveler’s Companion
  When the long period of war ended and the peaceful Edo period began, onigiri changed once more, becoming widely integrated into the lives of commoners.
  As highways were developed and people began to travel for leisure and pilgrimage, onigiri became beloved as convenient “portable food.”
  
  Ukiyo-e artist Utagawa Hiroshige’s Fifty-three Stations of the Tōkaidō depicts travelers enjoyably eating onigiri on their journey, showing how familiar it was to commoners.
  
  Furthermore, around the Genroku era (1688-1704) of the Edo period, the style of wrapping onigiri with nori (seaweed), as we often see today, became widespread.
  The cultivation of sheet nori flourished, making it more accessible.
  Nori-wrapped onigiri, which kept hands clean and improved flavor and nutrition, became established.
  

Thus, onigiri has evolved alongside Japanese history, changing its form and role while always accompanying people’s lives.
From ancient, simple rice clumps to aristocratic banquet fare, samurai war rations, and commoners’ travel food, it acts like a mirror reflecting changes in social structures, lifestyles, and even developments in food resources like rice cultivation and nori popularization.
Its evolution isn’t just food history; it’s a narrative of the evolution of Japanese society itself.

As this table shows, onigiri has consistently met the needs of each era, changing its form yet always retaining its essence as “easy-to-carry, energizing food.” This is why it remains deeply ingrained in Japanese life and holds a special place even today.

3. Why Do Japanese People Love Onigiri So Much?

Delving into the long history of onigiri reveals that it has held a meaning beyond mere sustenance in Japanese society. So, why does onigiri captivate us so profoundly in the modern era?
The reasons extend beyond superficial charms like convenience and deliciousness.

More Than Just Convenience: Reasons That Touch the Heart

• The Taste of Mom, The Taste of Home: Flavors of Love and Memory
  For many Japanese, onigiri is strongly linked to “the taste of Mom” or “the taste of home.”
  The onigiri packed in lunch boxes for school trips and sports days; a simple salt-seasoned onigiri (shio-musubi) gently prepared by a mother when one was sick with no appetite.
  Each onigiri is filled with the maker’s love and warm memories.
  In one survey, many heartwarming anecdotes were shared, such as, “When I came home starving as an elementary schooler, my grandma would make me miso onigiri with her homemade miso,” and “My mother’s onigiri were the most delicious.”
  
  The act of directly touching the rice with one’s hands to shape it is inherently personal and conveys the maker’s warmth.
  The choice of ingredients, the amount of salt, the firmness of the rice ball, and sometimes even the shape – these all contribute to a unique “family taste” that becomes deeply ingrained in the eater’s heart.
  This “handmade taste filled with love” is a major reason why onigiri is special to so many.
  It can also be seen as an expression of thoughtfulness, akin to the Japanese spirit of “omotenashi” (hospitality).
  
• Diversity and Creativity: The Infinitely Expanding World of Onigiri
  The charm of onigiri also lies in the infinite possibilities born from its simplicity.
  It has an accommodating nature, embracing everything from traditional fillings like umeboshi (pickled plum), kombu (kelp), and salmon, to modern additions like tuna mayonnaise, cheese, and even karaage (fried chicken) or hamburger steak.
  
  Throughout Japan, numerous “regional onigiri” (gotochi onigiri) feature local specialties.
  For example, sujiko (salted salmon roe) in Hokkaido, tenmusu (shrimp tempura onigiri) in Aichi, tororo kombu (shredded kelp) wrapped onigiri in Toyama, and jushi (Okinawan seasoned rice onigiri) – these onigiri, strongly reflecting local food culture and climate, are also a joy of traveling.
  
  In recent years, “onigirazu” (a kind of rice sandwich where rice and fillings are layered and wrapped in nori without being squeezed into a traditional shape) and visually appealing “evolved onigiri” have gained popularity, especially on social media.
  This flexibility – preserving tradition while embracing novelty and constantly evolving – is why onigiri never gets boring and continues to be loved by a wide range of generations.
  

A Sense of Comfort: Onigiri as Soul Food

Onigiri provides us Japanese with a deep sense of comfort and a touch of nostalgia.
This is largely connected to the “taste of Mom” and “taste of home” mentioned earlier, but there’s more to it.

For instance, onigiri are often provided as part of emergency food relief during disasters and reconstruction efforts.
During the 1995 Great Hanshin-Awaji Earthquake, volunteers delivered many onigiri to victims.
To commemorate this event, January 17th was designated “Omusubi Day” (Omusubi is another word for onigiri).
A warm onigiri handed over in difficult circumstances not only satisfies hunger but also has the power to comfort people’s hearts and give them courage.
In this way, onigiri has also played a role in deepening social bonds as a symbol of goodwill and mutual help.

A Connection to the Gods? The Secret of the Triangle

The common triangular shape of onigiri has an interesting theory related to Japanese spirituality.
In ancient Japan, mountains were believed to be sacred places where gods resided.
Therefore, one theory suggests that onigiri were shaped like mountains as offerings to the gods or to receive a share of the gods’ power.
This idea implies that onigiri might have held not just nutritional but also some spiritual significance.

Nutritional Balance and Health

It might be surprising, but onigiri is also nutritionally excellent.
Its main component, rice, is rich in carbohydrates, a source of energy.
As onigiri cools, some of the starch in the rice changes into “resistant starch.”
This acts similarly to dietary fiber, potentially helping to moderate blood sugar spikes and improve gut health.

Furthermore, the nori seaweed used to wrap onigiri is rich in B vitamins, minerals, and dietary fiber, and it aids in the digestion and absorption of nutrients from the rice.
By choosing different fillings, one can also consume protein and more vitamins and minerals.
For example, salmon and tuna are good sources of protein, while mixing in vegetables or mushrooms can boost fiber and vitamin content.
Thus, its ability to become a nutritionally balanced meal with a little ingenuity, despite its simplicity, is another reason for its everyday popularity.
This image of “easily accessible nutrition” is increasingly valued in today’s health-conscious society.

4. The Modern Onigiri Scene: From Specialty Shops to Convenience Stores

Deeply rooted in Japanese food culture, onigiri continues to evolve and add color to our modern diet.
From convenient convenience stores to meticulously crafted specialty shops, and even overseas, the world of onigiri is expanding.

Ever-Evolving Convenience Store Onigiri

Convenience stores are now indispensable to our lives, and onigiri has secured a firm position there as a flagship product available 24/7.
A crucial part of convenience store onigiri history is the “Parikko Film,” developed by Seven-Eleven in 1978.
This was a groundbreaking invention that kept the nori seaweed separate from the rice until just before eating, preserving its crispy texture.
The introduction of this film dramatically improved the quality of convenience store onigiri, making them widely accepted.

Then, in 1983, Seven-Eleven also introduced the “Tuna Mayonnaise” onigiri. Now an absolute classic, this filling was a novel combination at the time, sparking a trend and significantly diversifying onigiri fillings.

In recent years, convenience store onigiri have evolved further.
Against the backdrop of rising prices, “giant onigiri” that offer a satisfying meal in one go have become popular across various chains.
Lawson’s “Big Onigiri Salmon” and FamilyMart’s “Big Omusubi” series are prime examples.
Simultaneously, premium onigiri using high-end ingredients and health-conscious options made with brown rice, multigrain rice, or barley are also plentiful, catering to diverse consumer needs.
Convenience store onigiri continue to offer new appeal to our daily lives not just through accessibility but also through innovation tailored to the times.

Specialty Onigiri Shops: Where Craftsmanship Shines

While convenience store onigiri have established themselves as everyday fare, “onigiri specialty shops” have recently gained attention as a new food trend.
These shops meticulously focus on the rice variety, cooking method, salt seasoning, and above all, the quality and originality of their fillings, offering freshly made, warm onigiri that captivate many.

“Onigiri Asakusa Shukuroku” in Asakusa, Tokyo, gained fame after being featured in the Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand section, raising the profile of specialty onigiri shops both domestically and internationally.
“Onigiri Bongo” in Otsuka, Tokyo, is renowned for its unique style of “not squeezing” the rice, creating a fluffy texture, and consistently has long queues.
These shops offer not only classic fillings but also seasonal menus featuring fresh ingredients, “gourmet onigiri” with luxury items like Wagyu beef or truffles, and “healthy onigiri” packed with whole grains and vegetables, showcasing a diverse lineup unique to specialty stores.

Their beautiful, social-media-worthy appearance and the unique character infused by the owner’s dedication attract support, especially from younger generations, broadcasting a new charm for onigiri.
Paradoxically, the proliferation of convenience store onigiri might have cultivated a demand for “tastier” and “more special” options, fueling the boom in specialty shops.

A “Onigiri” specialty shop in Osaka that I often visit.

• Kitashinchi area in Kita Ward, Osaka City: 夜の一粒 北新地店
• Sonezaki area in Kita Ward, Osaka: おにぎり竜
• Dotonbori area, Chuo Ward, Osaka: 銀シャリおむすびen

ONIGIRI Goes Global

The appeal of onigiri has crossed borders and is spreading worldwide.
The word “ONIGIRI” is becoming recognized alongside “SUSHI” and “RAMEN” as representative of Japanese cuisine.

“Onigilly” in San Francisco, USA, offers onigiri made with organic Californian rice and additive-free ingredients, gaining popularity among health-conscious locals.
In New York, high-end onigiri costing over $7-8 (1000 yen) each are booming; at places like “BentOn,” young people intrigued by Japanese anime and those seeking gluten-free meals form queues.

The international popularity of onigiri can be attributed to its healthy image, portability, and “kawaii” (cute) appearance.
Moreover, “glocalization” – adapting to local food cultures by developing localized fillings like spicy tuna or teriyaki chicken while retaining the traditional Japanese form – seems to be a key to success.
The simple structure of onigiri might facilitate such cultural fusion.

Food Tech and the Future of Onigiri

Even traditional foods like onigiri are merging with the latest technology, forging new possibilities.
For instance, “Onimochi,” developed by vitom Inc., is designed as a “complete nutritional food,” blending glutinous rice and brown rice with abundant fillings to provide necessary nutrients in one meal.
Thanks to retort processing, it can be stored at room temperature for a year and is ready-to-eat, making it popular among busy professionals, trail runners, and even as emergency stockpile food.

Furthermore, with growing interest in sustainability, onigiri using ingredients and production methods with low environmental impact are emerging.
“Sustainable Omusubi” in Toranomon, Tokyo, offers onigiri made with sustainable ingredients and also features a food tech showcase.

These developments show that onigiri is not just preserving tradition but also evolving to meet the needs and challenges of modern society.
By adding new values like nutrition, shelf-life, and sustainability, the fields where onigiri can play a role will likely continue to expand.

5. If You Travel to Japan, Be Sure to Try Onigiri!

Now that we’ve explored the history, charm, and modern landscape of onigiri, if you ever have the chance to travel to Japan, please do try this food, which could be called the “soul of Japan.”

At the Airport, in the City – Always Nearby

Finding onigiri in Japan is incredibly easy.
You can get them literally anywhere: convenience stores at the airport upon arrival, ubiquitous convenience stores on city corners, supermarkets, and of course, specialty shops.
While selections at overseas airport convenience stores might be limited, you’re sure to be greeted by a wide variety of onigiri at convenience stores within Japanese airports.

An Easy Taste of the Japanese Spirit

Onigiri is a fantastic way to experience Japanese food culture easily and affordably.
Even if you don’t have the courage to decipher complex menus or enter formal restaurants, just picking up an onigiri at a convenience store allows you to touch upon everyday Japanese life.

For first-timers, classic fillings like salmon, umeboshi (pickled plum), and kombu (kelp) are recommended.
These are the stalwarts, long loved by Japanese people.
If you’re traveling regionally, seeking out local “gotochi onigiri” can also be fun.

The packaging of convenience store onigiri might be a bit tricky to open for first-timers.
The trick is to follow the instructions on the film: pull the central tape, then peel the film to the left and right. Consider this a small, uniquely Japanese cultural experience to enjoy.

Appeal for International Tourists

There are many reasons why onigiri is attractive to international tourists.
Firstly, the variety of fillings is extensive, allowing you to choose according to your preference for meat, fish, vegetables, or eggs.
Since they typically don’t use wheat, they are a safe option for those following a gluten-free diet. Depending on the filling, vegans can also enjoy them.

And above all, there’s the deliciousness of Japanese rice itself.
High-quality Japanese rice, cooked to fluffy perfection, is a treat in itself.
The cute triangular or oval shapes are also popular as an element of “Kawaii” culture.
Their convenience – easy to carry and eat anywhere – makes them a strong ally for travelers.

The act of choosing an onigiri and the experience of tasting it will be more than just satisfying hunger; it will be a small, memorable encounter with Japanese culture.
It’s a way to touch upon Japan’s efficiency, its dedication to food, and its unique product development.
Definitely try to find your favorite onigiri during your stay in Japan.

Conclusion

The story of onigiri began with simple rice clumps in the Yayoi period and, transcending eras, has become deeply intertwined with the lives and hearts of the Japanese people.
It has at times graced aristocratic banquets, sustained samurai, supported commoners’ travels, and become a symbol of a mother’s love.
Its history, diversity, and the warmth that resonates with people’s hearts are surely why onigiri is even called the “soul of Japan.”

Simple yet profound, traditional yet ever-new.
Each onigiri is imbued with the maker’s feelings and connects with the eater’s memories – a truly personal food. Simultaneously, it is a mirror reflecting Japan’s rich food culture and the Japanese spirit passed down through generations.

I hope that reading this article has deepened your interest in onigiri.
Perhaps the next onigiri you pick up will be more than just a snack; it might be an opportunity to feel Japan’s history, culture, and someone’s warm thoughts.
And if you have the chance to visit Japan, please savor the onigiri from various regions and touch the “soul” of this country.
You might even be inspired to try making onigiri yourself. From that small, hand-pressed rice ball, a new story can begin.

Tags