Omiwa Shrine: A Journey to the Mysteries of Japan’s Oldest Shrine

The Mountain Where Kami Resides and Omiwa Shrine

Do you know when Japan’s oldest shrine was built?
This time, I’d like to talk about Omiwa Shrine, one of Japan’s oldest.

Located in the land surrounded by mountains known as “Aogaki” (Green Fence) on the eastern edge of the Nara Basin, stands Mt. Miwa, showing off its strikingly beautiful conical shape.
Omiwa Shrine, which considers this very mountain its sacred body (goshintai), is one of the oldest shrines in Japan, a place where you can truly touch the origins of Japanese faith.
According to shrine tradition, Omiwa Shrine was founded in the 7th year of the reign of Emperor Sujin (95 BCE), making it older than Ise Grand Shrine and one of the oldest shrines in Japan established before the typical shrine architecture was established.
This sacred site, which conveys the form of ancient prayer to the present day, brings deep emotion and sometimes a sense of mystery to visitors.

Situated in Nara, the birthplace of Japanese civilization, Omiwa Shrine was once considered the most prestigious shrine in Yamato Province, holding the title of “Ichinomiya” (First Shrine).
Its history traces back to the age of myths, with its founding Tradition recorded in both the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki (Japan’s oldest historical chronicles).
At Omiwa Shrine, instead of a main sanctuary (honden), prayers are offered directly towards the mountain, preserving the ancient faith where nature itself was revered as a deity.

The uniqueness of this shrine is not just its age.
The powerful presence of the kami residing in the mountain, the mysterious legend of the serpent deity, and the numerous stories of strange experiences recounted by visitors make Omiwa Shrine a special place unlike any other.
In this article, we will delve into the profound charm of Omiwa Shrine, its history and myths, highlights within the precincts, and the mysterious nature that draws people in.

A Shrine Without a Main Hall (Honden)

One of the most striking features of Omiwa Shrine is the absence of a main sanctuary or honden.
This is not merely a difference in architectural style, but a direct representation of the form of worship that predates the arrival of Buddhism in Japan, centered around nature worship.
The original style of belief, where kami (deities or spirits) were thought to reside in natural objects like mountains, rocks, and trees, and prayers were offered directly to them, remains here as it was.
This physical characteristic allows visitors to feel the depth of Japanese faith and the breath of ancient times on a visceral level.

Furthermore, the history of Omiwa Shrine is layered.
From the nature worship beginning in the age of myth, through the deep reverence of the ancient imperial court, the syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism from the medieval period onwards (seen in entities like Miwa Myojin and the temple Daigorinji), to the separation of Shinto and Buddhism during the Meiji era and up to the present day, while influenced by various eras of faith and culture, the core belief in Mt. Miwa has been preserved.
This accumulation of history gives Omiwa Shrine even greater depth.

The God Residing in the Mountain: Sacred Mt. Miwa and Ancient Faith

The center of faith at Omiwa Shrine is Mt. Miwa itself, with its beautifully formed conical shape. Since ancient times, it has been revered as the mountain where a kami resides.
The Kojiki and Nihon Shoki record that the main deity, Omononushi no Okami, himself wished to be enshrined on this very Mt. Miwa. The entire mountain is considered the sacred precinct, and its very existence is regarded as divine.

To worship this mountain directly, Omiwa Shrine does not have a main sanctuary (honden) like typical shrines.
Worshippers pray towards the mountain from the Haiden (Worship Hall) built at its base.
This Haiden is designated as a National Important Cultural Property and was rebuilt in 1664 by the fourth Tokugawa Shogun, Ietsuna.

Beyond the Haiden, at the boundary with the sacred body of Mt. Miwa, stands a highly unusual structure known as the Mitsutorii (Triple Torii).
This too is a National Important Cultural Property and has a unique form where smaller torii are connected to the sides of the central torii.
Its origin and construction are shrouded in mystery, with ancient records only describing it as an “ancient secret place of one shrine.”

The Mitsutorii is slightly different from regular torii that mark the entrance to a sacred area.
Its structure, with a door in the central part and a misu (御簾 – bamboo screen) hung in front of it, strongly suggests its role as a “boundary” or “curtain” separating the sacred realm from the human world, rather than being meant for “passing through” like a typical torii.
This seems to symbolize the reverence for the sacred body of Mt. Miwa itself and its sacredness that prevents direct entry.
Worshippers face the unseen yet undoubtedly present mountain deity through this Mitsutorii.

In this way, the style of worship at Omiwa Shrine, which faces nature itself without constructing shrine buildings, is a precious example that conveys the state of primitive Japanese faith from before the development of shrine architecture to the present day.

Omononushi no Okami of Miwa: The Story of the Great Serpent Deity

The main deity enshrined at Omiwa Shrine is Omononushi no Okami.
According to the myths in the Kojiki and Nihon Shoki, he appeared before Okuninushi no Kami, the deity of nation-building, and told him to “enshrine me on the green fence, on the mountain to the east of Yamato,” wishing to be enshrined on Mt. Miwa in order to complete the nation-building.
As a deity of land development, he has gathered deep and widespread faith as a protective deity for all aspects of human life, including the development of agriculture, industry, and commerce, warding off evil directions, healing illnesses, sake brewing, medicine making, warding off bad luck, traffic safety, and matchmaking.

Omononushi no Okami is said to be a very powerful deity, but also possesses a fearsome aspect that can cause(tatari – divine punishment or curse) at times.
And one of the most characteristic aspects of this deity is his form as a “serpent deity.”

A famous myth telling its origin is the tragic love story with Yamato Totope Himomoso-hime no Mikoto.
A beautiful man visited Momoso-hime every night.
However, his appearance could only be seen at night.
When the princess pleaded, “Please stay until morning and show me your appearance,” the man replied, “Tomorrow morning, I will be in your comb box.
However, you must never be surprised.”
The next morning, when the princess fearfully opened the comb box, she found a small, beautiful serpent coiled inside.
Surprised and crying out, the Great Deity, revealed in his true form, was deeply ashamed, turned back into human form, and returned to his homeland, Mt. Miwa.
It is said that the princess died from the shock.
This story strongly emphasizes that Omononushi no Okami is a deity who takes the form of a serpent.

Locally, snakes are affectionately called “Mii-san” and revered as messengers of the deity who bring good fortune.
You can often see offerings of raw eggs and sake, said to be Mii-san’s favorite foods, placed in various spots within the precincts, especially at the base of the “Mi no Kami Sugi” (Deity’s Serpent Cedar), a sacred cedar tree said to house a white snake.
This is evidence that faith in the serpent deity is still deeply alive today.
The spout of the chozuya (purification font) is also designed as a snake coiled around a sake barrel, holding a sacred jewel (hoju) and spouting water from its mouth, illustrating the connection between serpent faith and the deity’s role as the god of sake brewing.

In mythology, the relationship between Omononushi no Okami and Okuninushi no Kami, the deity of Izumo, is depicted as somewhat complex.
In the Kojiki, after completing the nation-building, Omononushi appears as a different deity illuminating the sea and demands to be enshrined on Mt. Miwa.
On the other hand, in the Nihon Shoki, Omononushi no Okami declares himself to be the “Sakimitama (harmonious soul) and Kushimitama (wondrous soul)” of Okuninushi no Kami himself.
This difference in accounts may be the result of the integration and organization of different deity beliefs and regional power dynamics (such as Izumo and Yamato) during the compilation of the myths.
It is possible there was an intention, within a historical perspective centered on the Yamato court, to link the powerful local deity of Miwa with the nation-building myths of the Izumo lineage.
This ambiguity, conversely, adds to the depth of the myths.

Omononushi no Okami is also deeply revered as the “God of Sake Brewing.”
In the era of Emperor Sujin, there is a legend that Takahashi no Ikuhinomikoto, considered the ancestor of toji (sake brewers), brewed sacred sake (miki) for the deity overnight at the command of the emperor.
Due to this achievement, Takahashi no Ikuhinomikoto is enshrined at the auxiliary shrine Ikuhijinja, attracting faith from those in the sake industry.
Many sake barrels are dedicated within the Omiwa Shrine precincts, and the fact that local sake brewing uses the underground water from Mt. Miwa also indicates a deep connection with sake.

The serpent faith in Miwa is not simply about fearing a terrifying entity.
Snakes, which repeatedly shed their skin, are symbols of “rebirth” and “eternity.”
Also, because they crawl on the ground and live near water, they also have the character of a water deity and a fertility deity protecting the bounty of the land and water sources.
Furthermore, the myth of a god visiting at night and hiding his appearance can be interpreted as symbolizing unseen sacredness and hidden power.
The offering of eggs, symbols of life, is also likely connected to this deity’s vitality and the prayer for abundance.
Thus, the serpent deity of Omiwa Shrine is a complex and powerful being with a wide range of meanings, including creation, fertility, rebirth, and hidden divine power.

Exploring the Sacred Precincts: Highlights and Encounters

The vast precincts of Omiwa Shrine offer many highlights where you can feel the breath of history, myth, and nature.

Center of Faith: Haiden (Worship Hall) and Mitsutorii (Triple Torii)

As mentioned earlier, the starting point for worship is the Haiden used for worshipping the sacred body of Mt. Miwa from afar, and the mysterious Mitsutorii located beyond it.
These structures, both National Important Cultural Properties, symbolize the form of ancient prayer unique to Omiwa Shrine.

Healing Water and the Tohai Entrance: Sai Shrine

Among Omiwa Shrine’s auxiliary shrines (sessha), Sai Shrine is particularly important.
Its official name is Sai ni Imasu Omiwa no Aramitama Jinja, and it enshrines the Aramitama (active, vigorous, sometimes fearsome aspect) of Omononushi no Okami, the main deity of Omiwa Shrine’s head shrine.
Aramitama represents the active and powerful side of a kami and is believed to be particularly potent for healing illnesses and warding off disasters.
Since ancient times, it has been deeply revered as a deity who calms epidemics.
Every year on April 18th, the Hanashizume-no-Matsuri (Flower Calming Festival), commonly known as the “Medicine Festival,” is held here, following ancient traditions.

Within the precincts of Sai Shrine is a spiritual spring called “Kusuri Ido” (Medicine Well).
This water, which springs from Mt. Miwa, has been believed since ancient times to be “sacred water” effective for all kinds of illnesses.
Many worshippers drink this water and pray for health.
The path leading to Sai Shrine is called “Kusuri Michi” (Medicine Path) and is planted with various medicinal herbs.

Furthermore, Sai Shrine is the location of the sole entrance for Tohai, the sacred ascent of Mt. Miwa, the sacred body.
Anyone wishing to undertake tohai (described later) must register here.

Sai Shrine can be said to be a place where various elements of Omiwa Shrine are concentrated: the powerful aspect of the deity (Aramitama), the blessings of nature (Medicine Water), the sacredness of the divine mountain (Tohai entrance), and ancient rituals (Hanashizume-no-Matsuri).
These come together to position Sai Shrine as one of the particularly important sacred areas within Omiwa Shrine.

Wisdom and a Great View: Kuhebiko Shrineand Omiwa-no-Mori Observatory

Along the path towards Sai Shrine, or accessible from another route, are Kuhebiko Shrine and the Omiwa-no-Mori Observatory.
Kuhebiko Shrine enshrines Kuhebiko no Mikoto, a deity of wisdom described in the Kojiki as knowing “all things under heaven.”
It is believed to grant blessings for academic achievement and passing exams, attracting many students.

Right nearby, the Omiwa-no-Mori Observatory offers a panoramic view of the magnificent Yamato Basin, including Omiwa Shrine’s Great Torii and the distant Yamato Sanzan (Three Mountains of Yamato: Mt. Unebi, Mt. Miminashi, and Mt. Amanokagu).
This observatory has also been selected as a “Lover’s Sanctuary,” symbolizing the romantic aspect of Omiwa Shrine, which is also known for its matchmaking blessings.
This might be linked to the legend of the Meoto Iwa and the episode of the “red thread” of fate.

Other Highlights

• Nade Usagi (Patting Rabbit)
  A charming statue of a rabbit.
  It is said that if you gently stroke the same part of the rabbit’s body as the part of your own body that is aching, the pain will be eased.
  It is well-worn and shiny from being touched by many people.
• Meoto Iwa (Married Couple Rocks)
  Two rocks standing close together, symbolized for matchmaking and marital harmony.
• Mi no Kami Sugi (Deity’s Serpent Cedar)
  A sacred giant cedar tree, said to be several hundred years old, with a legend that a white snake, an incarnation of Omononushi no Okami, lives there. Eggs and sake are offered at its base.
• Otorii (大鳥居 – Great Torii)
  A huge torii built in the late Showa period (late 20th century), boasting a height of 32.2 meters and a span of 23 meters between its pillars, making it one of Japan’s largest.
  Made of weathering steel, it is said to have a lifespan of 1300 years.
  Its appearance towering against the majestic backdrop of Mt. Miwa serves as a modern landmark for Omiwa Shrine.
• Haraedo Shrine (Purification Shrine)
  Located along the path after passing through the second torii.
  It is customary to purify one’s mind and body here before proceeding to the main worship.

Within the precincts of Omiwa Shrine, ancient nature worship objects like Mt. Miwa coexist with modern structures like the huge steel torii built in the Showa era.
This contrast between ancient and modern is a testament to the fact that Omiwa Shrine has preserved its essence through the eons, while also adapting and continuing to live on in the present age.

Whispers of the Wind: Mysterious Experiences and the Power Spot Aura

Omiwa Shrine has been known as a powerful “power spot” since ancient times, and visitors have recounted various mysterious experiences.
The fact that people constantly report events that cannot be scientifically explained, or experience deep spiritual sensations, enhances the shrine’s mystical nature.

One visitor recounts being approached in the precincts by an unknown man who said, “There’s a good place even if you don’t go all the way up,” and was led to a place where people usually don’t go. It was a spot enclosed by shimenawa (sacred ropes) with a rock and a large tree, where the air was clearly different, and they felt such a strong ki (energy or spiritual force) that their hair stood on end.
The man who guided them reportedly said things like, “The barrier (kekkai) is strong,” “In places with strong ki, the scenery appears vividly,” and “I dislike the term ‘power spot,’ but this is definitely such a place,” before disappearing without a trace.
This experience can be seen as an example of feeling the invisible power and presence lurking at Omiwa Shrine.

Another visitor reported an experience where, while walking along the path after finishing their worship, they suddenly heard the voice of their deceased father clearly right next to their ear.
The voice, speaking in a gentle tone and calling them by their childhood nickname, expressed words of gratitude.
They reported that tears wouldn’t stop, and they felt a deep sense of purification.
While they rationally considered it might have been a mental replay, they stated that the emotion and healing brought by the experience were immense.

Besides these specific anecdotes, many visitors mention the unique atmosphere of Omiwa Shrine.
This includes the refreshing and clear air filling the precincts, the sense of lightness and purification felt after worship, and experiences where the five senses seem heightened.
Some even report seeing dragon-like entities or feeling strong energy in specific locations.

These “mysterious experiences” are not objectively verifiable facts.
However, the fact that so many people report similar sensations and experiences suggests a special power possessed by the place that is Omiwa Shrine.

It is thought that a certain “field’s power,” where the history of ancient faith, the magnificent nature of Mt. Miwa, and the unique ritual forms merge, deeply affects the hearts and sensibilities of visitors.
This field’s power may trigger people’s subjective experiences, and these anecdotes may further enhance the shrine’s mystical reputation, creating a cycle.
It can be said that the “mystery” of Omiwa Shrine resides not only in objective phenomena but also in the profound subjective experiences that resonate within people’s hearts.

Ascending the Sacred Body: Pilgrimage to Sacred Mt. Miwa

While Mt. Miwa, the core of Omiwa Shrine’s faith, is the sacred body (goshintai), the general public is permitted to climb it in a form called Tohai.
However, this is completely different from recreational mountain climbing or hiking; it is strictly an “act of worship” towards the divine mountain.
Therefore, strict rules are established for tohai, and it must be approached with deep respect and reverence.

Tohai Etiquette and Rules

To protect the sacredness of Mt. Miwa, tohai has many prohibited items and points of caution.
Adhering to these shows respect for the deity.

Significance of Tohai

The purpose of Mt. Miwa Tohai is not simply to reach the summit (where sacred rocks called Okitsu Iwakura are located).
Rather, walking through the sacred mountain area with reverence, feeling the deity’s presence close by, and introspecting – that process itself is considered a significant act of faith.

These numerous strict rules are not merely restrictions.
By prohibiting photography, eating and drinking, and unnecessary talking, climbers minimize external distractions and can concentrate their awareness inwards, on the surrounding nature, and on the sacred atmosphere of the mountain.
Starting with the purification ritual before entry, through conduct within the mountain, and ending with the report after descending, the entire sequence of actions becomes a “manner” to express deep respect for the divine mountain.
It can be said that the physical act of climbing is elevated into a spiritual discipline, or “prayer,” through these regulations.

Planning Your Pilgrimage: Access and Worship Information for Omiwa Shrine

Here is some basic information to help you plan your visit to Omiwa Shrine or tohai of Mt. Miwa.

Access

• Train
  Take the JR Sakurai Line (Manyo Mahoroba Line) to “Miwa Station,” approx. 7-10 minute walk. It is easily accessible from central Nara City.
• Car
  Access from the nearest interchanges, etc., should be confirmed on the official website.
  Information regarding parking is also recommended to be checked on the official website. Use of public transportation is encouraged.

Worship Hours, Reception Hours, and Fees

Note: The reception hours and availability of Mt. Miwa Tohai, as well as the opening days of the Treasure House, may change.
If you are planning Tohai in particular, please be sure to check the latest information on Omiwa Shrine’s official website or by phone in advance.

Touching the Ancient Mystery of Miwa

Omiwa Shrine is more than just an old shrine.
It is a rare place where you can touch the wellspring of Japanese spirituality, woven from the reverence for Mt. Miwa as the sacred body, the history of being one of Japan’s oldest shrines, the legend of the mysterious serpent deity, and the invisible ki and mysterious experiences felt by visitors.

The fact that the ancient form of worship, which holds no main sanctuary and offers prayers directly to nature itself, is still carefully preserved, provides us living in the modern age with a very valuable experience.
The Tohai of Mt. Miwa, carried out under strict rules, is not merely a physical challenge but a deep spiritual pilgrimage, an act of being allowed to enter a sacred realm.

When you visit Omiwa Shrine, please approach it with respect for its long history and deep faith, and quietly feel the presence of the sacred mountain.
There, an unforgettable experience awaits you, far from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, connecting with the ancient heart of Japanese prayer.
The ancient mystery that breathes in the land of Miwa continues to deeply resonate with those who visit.

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