Opening the Heart to the “Two Shrines and One Temple,” a UNESCO World Heritage Site
From my personal experiences visiting Nikko, I’ve come to realize that the shrines and temples nestled in its mountains are more than just a collection of historical buildings.
They are a living legacy that embodies the spirit of Japan across generations, speaking deeply to the hearts of those who visit.
On December 2, 1999, at the 23rd session of the World Heritage Committee in Marrakesh, Morocco, these sites were officially registered as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site – a monumental achievement, as they were the 10th site in Japan (and 8th cultural property) to receive this designation.
Their value was recognized for meeting Criterion 1, “a masterpiece of human creative genius,” and Criterion 2, “an important interchange of human values over a span of time or within a cultural area of the world.”
The term “Shrines and Temples of Nikko” refers to the two shrines and one temple located in the Nikko’s Yamanouchi area: Nikko Toshogu, Nikko Futarasan Shrine, and Nikkozan Rinnoji Temple.
This is a complex cultural heritage site, comprised of 103 structures (9 of which are National Treasures and 94 are Important Cultural Properties) and the rich natural landscape that surrounds them.
Their value is deeply rooted in the highly artistic architecture and decoration of the Tosho-gu Shrine, the mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu built in the early 17th century, and Taiyuin, the mausoleum of the third shogun, Iemitsu.
A journey through Nikko’s shrines and temples is not just about admiring the magnificent architecture that flaunts the power of the Tokugawa shogunate.
Since its founding about 1,200 years ago by the Buddhist monk Shodo Shonin, this area has been a sacred site for mountain worship, carrying on a history as a rare spiritual place where Shinto, Buddhism, and the Tokugawa mausoleums coexist in an integrated whole.
This place is a mirror reflecting the spiritual history of Japan itself, beginning with ancient nature worship, evolving through the syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism, and culminating in the magnificent architecture of the Edo period.
Nikko’s shrines and temples embody a “stratification of time,” with different eras of faith and power layered upon one another.
It’s this multilayered historical structure that makes the area not just a tourist destination, but a place of profound pilgrimage.
Table of Contents
Dawn of Faith and Its Legacy – Following the Footsteps of Shodo Shonin
When you trace the history of Nikko, the first figure to appear is that of Shodo Shonin, the monk who opened this area during the Nara period about 1,250 years ago. At that time, Nara was the capital of Japan.
He studied Buddhism there and, with deep devotion, took on the challenge of founding the mountain of Nikko.
Nikko’s history began in 766 with the establishment of Shihonryuji Temple, the predecessor of Rinnoji Temple. He then made three attempts to climb Mount Nantai, finally succeeding after great hardship and founding the Okumiya (inner shrine) of Futarasan Shrine at its summit.
This was the fundamental moment of faith when mountain worship – reverence for nature itself as a deity – and the teachings of Buddhism were joined in this land.
Before the Tokugawa era began, Nikko Toshogu, Nikko Futarasan Shrine, and Nikkozan Rinnoji Temple existed as an integrated whole under a single system of faith called “Nikko-san.”
Here, the fusion of Shinto’s nature worship and Buddhist teachings fostered a unique Japanese religious form known as Shinbutsu-shugo (the syncretism of Shinto and Buddhism).
For example, the three deities enshrined at Futarasan Shrine – Onamuchi-no-mikoto, Tagorihime-no-mikoto, and Ajisukitakahikone-no-mikoto – and the three Buddhist deities enshrined at Rinnoji Temple – Senju Kannon, Amida Nyorai, and Bato Kannon – were each considered incarnations of Nikko’s three sacred mountains: Mount Nantai, Mount Nyoho, and Mount Taro.
This fact shows that Shinto gods and Buddhist deities not only coexisted but also deeply influenced and integrated with one another.
However, this form of faith, which had lasted for over a thousand years, was forcibly divided by the historical tide of the Shinbutsu-bunri-rei (Ordinance for the Separation of Shinto and Buddhism) issued by the new Meiji government.
This led to the two shrines and one temple being reorganized as separate religious facilities, taking on their current forms.
Although physically separated, their spiritual bond remains deep, and the “two souls” residing in Nikko Futarasan Shrine and Nikkozan Rinnoji Temple have been passed down for generations.
Futarasan Shrine, as a symbol of ancient nature worship, is filled with a serene and refreshing energy, while Rinnoji Temple, as a hub of human-made faith that transmits the teachings of Buddhism, has created a magnificent space.
By understanding the history of these two faiths as once being one, we can feel the mystical nature of this place more deeply.
A Dream of Peace and a Lavish Shrine – Nikko Toshogu
Nikko Toshogu is a shrine dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu, who unified Japan, as “Tosho Daigongen,” a deified spirit. When it was first built in 1617, it was relatively simple.
However, in 1636, the third shogun, Iemitsu, who deeply revered his grandfather, had it rebuilt into its current lavish form.
This “Great Reconstruction of the Kanei Era” perfected the Gongen-zukuri architectural style, considered the pinnacle of early modern Japanese architecture, and became the standard for subsequent mausoleums and shrines.
The greatest attraction of Toshogu is its overwhelming architectural decoration.
Master craftsmen from all over the country were brought in to create 5,137 carvings, adorning the buildings with lacquer, gold leaf, and vibrant colors.
The Yomeimon Gate, known as the “Sunset Gate” because one could gaze at it all day without getting bored, is the most magnificent example.
Its colorful dragons, decorative roof tiles, and carvings of saints and historical stories captivate and inspire awe in all who see them.
These decorations weren’t just for the sake of beauty.
By deifying Ieyasu and making his power eternal, they were a grand “political statement” intended to showcase the unwavering dominance of the Tokugawa shogunate to both domestic and foreign onlookers.
The carvings of Chinese stories, saints, and mythical beasts symbolized the intelligence and legitimacy of the shogunate and were meant to instill respect in those who saw them.
Toshogu is home to many symbolic carvings that hold deep stories.
The Three Wise Monkeys, “See No Evil, Speak No Evil, Hear No Evil,” are famous as a moral lesson for a child’s growth, but they also have a mystical background linked to the Koshin belief from Chinese Taoism.
The Sleeping Cat carving at the entrance to the Okumiya (inner shrine) expresses a duality: it represents a desire for a peaceful world where a sleeping cat can coexist with sparrows, while also representing a guard’s stance, always ready to pounce and protect Ieyasu.
Furthermore, even the perfectly beautiful Yomeimon Gate has an intentionally unfinished element.
Of the 12 pillars supporting the gate, one of the carved patterns is upside down.
This is the “pillar of reversal to ward off evil,” based on the philosophy that “completion is the beginning of decay.”
It reflects a profound Japanese aesthetic that finds imperfection within perfect beauty.
Visiting Toshogu is more than just seeing magnificent buildings.
The experience of climbing the steep, 200-step stone staircase to the Okumiya is a physical challenge that can be demanding.
However, this very physical exertion is a crucial process for imprinting the solemn scenery and tranquility at the top more deeply into your heart.
Unconsciously, visitors become “pilgrims,” and the “sense of accomplishment” gained through physical effort merges with the spiritual energy of Toshogu, creating a unique and deeply moving experience.
The Five Lavish Features of Nikko Toshogu
- Carvings
- Coloration
- Lacquerwork
- Metal fittings
- Architectural style
A Contrast of Stillness and Movement, a Fusion of Gods and Buddhas – The Story of the Two Shrines and One Temple
To truly understand the charm of Nikko’s shrines and temples, it’s essential to look beyond the overwhelming splendor of Toshogu and focus on the quiet serenity of Futarasan Shrine and Rinnoji Temple.
Nikko Futarasan Shrine: A Place of Purity
Nikko Futarasan Shrine is an ancient shrine with over 1,200 years of history, dedicated to Mount Nantai, the main peak of the Nikko mountain range.
It has a completely different, calm and serene atmosphere from the magnificent opulence of Toshogu.
Upon entering the grounds, you feel enveloped in a tranquil air that is both nostalgic and peaceful, as if your mind and body are being purified.
It is also known for its blessings of good fortune and matchmaking, with many people praying for a harmonious marriage, children, and business prosperity.
Highlights include the Futarasan Reizen (Spiritual Spring), said to offer benefits for health and rejuvenation, as well as several other “power spots” that make you feel the mystery of nature, such as the Meoto-sugi (Husband-and-Wife Cedar) that links couples’ fates and the Oyako-sugi (Parent-and-Child Cedar) that deepens family bonds.
Even when Toshogu is crowded, Futarasan Shrine is relatively quiet and is the perfect place to calmly visit the various spiritual spots and feel the ancient energy of the mountains.
Nikkozan Rinnoji Temple Taiyuin: An Aesthetics of Restraint
Taiyuin, which belongs to Nikkozan Rinnoji Temple, is the mausoleum of the third shogun, Tokugawa Iemitsu. Located west of Toshogu, it was built to watch over his grandfather Ieyasu’s mausoleum, expressing Iemitsu’s deep respect and reverence for him. It is said that Iemitsu left a will stating, “My mausoleum must not be more magnificent than my grandfather’s.”
As a result, Taiyuin is generally smaller and more delicate in impression compared to Toshogu.
However, this “modesty” is in no way inferior to Toshogu.
It is the purest proof of Iemitsu’s absolute worship of his grandfather.
The decision not to make his own tomb more luxurious was an act of spiritual humility, a way to downplay his own power and fame to highlight his grandfather’s might.
This “aesthetic of restraint” gave rise to a more refined artistry, with techniques applied to even the most inconspicuous details.
The intricate decorations on Taiyuin’s gates and finer points speak of a profound intention, invoking a quiet sense of awe in those who behold them.
The entire complex of Nikko’s shrines and temples is a fusion of “yin” and “yang.”
Toshogu is the “yang” existence, symbolizing the overwhelming power and wealth of the Tokugawa, shining brilliantly and captivating all who see it.
On the other hand, Futarasan Shrine and Taiyuin are “yin” presences, rooted in ancient mountain worship and deep reverence for a grandfather.
Their serene atmosphere and delicate aesthetics embody the energy of “stillness.”
This contrast between “yang” and “yin,” “movement” and “stillness,” forms the mysterious charm of Nikko’s shrines and temples, allowing visitors to feel these two opposing energies at the same time.
Comparison of Aesthetics: Nikko Toshogu and Taiyuin
- Builder: Iemitsu (Toshogu), Iemitsu (Taiyuin)
- Characteristics: Overwhelming opulence (Toshogu), Elegant and restrained beauty (Taiyuin)
- Architectural Style: Gongen-zukuri (Toshogu), Gongen-zukuri (Taiyuin)
- Intention: Display of power and deification of Ieyasu (Toshogu), Expression of respect and humility towards Ieyasu (Taiyuin)
- Main Colors: Vibrant, lavishly decorated (Toshogu), Subdued, utilizing more black and gold (Taiyuin)
The Journey Begins Here – Essential Tips for Your Nikko Trip
Preparing in advance is key to making your trip to Nikko’s shrines and temples truly moving.
By understanding how to get there from Tokyo and what local foods to try, your journey will be even more fulfilling.
Access from Tokyo
From Tokyo, you can get to Nikko by train, bus, or car.
Understand the characteristics of each to choose the best option for your travel style.
- Train:
- Shinkansen + JR Line
From Tokyo Station, take the Tohoku Shinkansen to Utsunomiya Station (approx. 50 mins), then transfer to the JR Nikko Line to Nikko Station (approx. 45 mins).
The total time is about 1 hour 40 minutes to 2 hours 30 minutes, and the cost is around ¥5,000 to ¥6,000. - JR/Tobu Limited Express
From Shinjuku Station, the JR Limited Express “Nikko” runs directly to Nikko, taking about 2 hours 10 minutes and costing about ¥4,400.
From Asakusa Station, the Tobu Limited Express “Kegon” is convenient, taking about 2 hours and costing a relatively low ¥3,050. - Local Trains
There are also routes using the JR Utsunomiya Line and Tobu Nikko Line, which take about 2 hours 45 minutes to 3 hours 10 minutes and are the cheapest option, starting from ¥1,990. - Note
JR Nikko Station and Tobu Nikko Station are close to each other, but it’s about a 40-minute walk to Toshogu, so it’s common to take a bus or taxi from the station.
- Shinkansen + JR Line
- Highway Bus
A direct highway bus runs from Tokyo Station Yaesu South Exit to a stop near Nikko Toshogu.
It takes about 3 hours and is an affordable option at ¥2,600 to ¥3,000, with the advantage of no transfers.
Be aware that it may be affected by traffic. - Car
You can take regular or express roads from Tokyo to Nikko.
The journey takes about 1 hour 56 minutes to 2 hours 24 minutes.
The toll fee varies by route, but an example from Tokyo IC to Nikko IC is around ¥5,700 to ¥6,850.
Local Nikko Cuisine to Savor
Nikko has many delicious local foods born from its history and climate.
On your pilgrimage, be sure to experience Nikko’s culture through your taste buds.
- Yuba (Tofu Skin)
Nikko’s yuba is made from high-quality water and soy milk and is pulled in a double layer, so its texture is different from Kyoto’s yuba and it’s more substantial.
It’s often enjoyed as sashimi or in simmered dishes, but you can also find unique ways to eat it, like in croquettes or buns.
The “Fried Yuba Manju” (deep-fried yuba bun) is especially popular for a snack, with its crispy exterior and sweet filling. - Yokan (Sweet Bean Jelly)
This sweet jelly made from red beans and sugar has long been a popular souvenir for pilgrims because it keeps well.
Many old shops line the streets, preserving the traditional flavor. - Other Specialties
- Kakigori (Shaved Ice) from Nikko’s Natural Ice
Shaved ice made from natural ice cultivated in Nikko’s environment is also a popular treat. - Tochigi Wagyu Beef
You can find restaurants that serve local brand wagyu, such as Tochigi Wagyu and Nikko Kirifuri Kogen Beef. - Strawberries
Tochigi Prefecture has been Japan’s top strawberry producer for 57 consecutive years.
We highly recommend desserts made with the “Tochigi Strawberry,” which is large and has a great balance of sweetness and acidity.
- Kakigori (Shaved Ice) from Nikko’s Natural Ice
Location of Nikko Toshogu Shrine
Conclusion: What Nikko’s Shrines and Temples Say to Us – A Message to Our Hearts in the Modern World
A journey through Nikko’s shrines and temples is not just about seeing beautiful buildings and taking photos.
It is a “pilgrimage of the heart,” a way to confront yourself, just as Shodo Shonin once confronted nature.
The physical exertion you feel during the journey, especially the sense of accomplishment after climbing the stairs to the Okumiya, is a crucial process for imprinting the spiritual energy of this place more deeply into your soul.
You can find the imperfection of life in the unfinished pillar of Yomeimon, sense the preciousness of peace in the sleeping cat, and purify your mind and body in the serene atmosphere of Futarasan Shrine.
Nikko’s shrines and temples have a multilayered value – a fusion of art, history, faith, and nature – that speaks deeply to the heart of each individual visitor.
This place reminds us of universal themes like human “power” and “humility,” and the “desire for peace.”
To make this spiritual pilgrimage more rewarding, preparation is essential.
From my own visits, I can tell you that comfortable walking shoes are a must, as the grounds are vast with many slopes and gravel paths. It’s also a good idea to have cash and coins on hand for entrance fees, lucky charms, and goshuin (calligraphy stamps).
By planning your route to experience the contrast between the two shrines and one temple – for example, enjoying the lively atmosphere of Toshogu first, then seeking the tranquility of Futarasan Shrine – you can more deeply feel Nikko’s profound charm.
Nikko is not just “there”; it’s a place that speaks to us across time.
I hope this guide helps you transform your own journey to Nikko’s shrines and temples from a mere tourist trip into a profound “pilgrimage of the heart.”
References
- Nikko Toshogu Official site: Honorable History
- Nippon.com: World Heritage Site “Nikko Toshogu Shrine”
- Nikko City Official Website: Nikko Shrines and Temples: Toshogu Shrine
- Tochigi Prefectural Goverment: Nikko Toshogu Shrine
- Nikko Official Guide: If you come to Nikko, you definitely have to try these “Nikko Gourmet” dishes that locals love!
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