Welcome to the World of “Traditional Japanese Patterns” (Wagara), Where Beauty is Woven
The intricate designs adorning Japanese kimonos, architecture, and crafts are more than just mere decorations.
These patterns have long been a part of people’s lives, giving form to sincere wishes and prayers for things like bountiful harvests, good fortune, long life, and the prosperity of one’s descendants.
They are the crystallization of Japan’s unique perspective on nature and its sense of aesthetics, passed down through generations.
This article will unravel the profound world of traditional Japanese patterns (wagara).
From their historical background to the meanings embedded in each design and their creative modern applications, this guide aims to help you enjoy the beauty of Japan more deeply.
Table of Contents
What Are Traditional Patterns? Not Just Designs, But a Crystallization of Wishes and Culture
“Wagara” is a term that refers to the traditional patterns used for centuries on Japanese textiles, ceramics, and interior decorations.
The beauty of these patterns lies not only in their sophisticated design but also in the rich meaning and stories they contain.
For example, patterns that draw on motifs from nature or everyday objects are condensed expressions of people’s hopes for good luck and happiness.
These patterns have been used in traditional building materials like sliding paper doors (fusuma) and latticework (kumiko) and are now also appearing as beautiful designs on modern wallpapers and tiles.
Comparing them to Western design philosophies highlights the essence of wagara.
Western patterns, particularly geometric ones, developed with an emphasis on visual beauty and artistic sense.
While patterns like roses or damask symbolically express abstract concepts like beauty and love, wagara uses concrete motifs such as pine trees, bamboo, cranes, and tortoises to convey more direct wishes and narratives for things like perpetual youth, marital harmony, and family prosperity.
This difference is more than just a matter of design style.
Japanese traditional patterns are “symbols that contain meaning,” with a strong aspect as a cultural language that speaks to the viewer’s heart.
This difference in design philosophy is also related to Japan’s unique aesthetic of a “culture of layering.”
In the West, striped patterns were once considered a “symbol of disorder” and were disliked.
However, in Japan, a culture of layering colors and patterns has existed since ancient times, as seen in the color combinations of layered kimonos (kasane no irome) from the Heian period.
During the Edo period, in response to repeated sumptuary laws (luxury prohibitions), commoners showcased the spirit of “iki” (a chic, subtle aesthetic) by competing with flamboyant patterns on the lining of their plain-looking striped kimonos.
Thus, wagara is not just a trend but a manifestation of a deep-seated Japanese aesthetic that has been the driving force behind its diverse development.
The History of Traditional Patterns: Evolving Japanese Beauty Across Eras
The history of Japanese traditional patterns has always evolved, reflecting the social structures and culture of each era.
Nara and Heian Periods: The Adoption of Foreign Culture and Its Japanization
The roots of Japanese traditional patterns can be traced to motifs (such as those found in the Shōsōin Repository) brought from China and Korea, and even from as far away as the Silk Road.
However, from the Nara to the Heian periods, with the birth of the hiragana script and the development of court culture, Japan’s unique perspective on nature and its aesthetics were incorporated into these motifs, which were refined into a distinct style known as “yūsoku mon’yo” (patterns of courtly tradition).
For example, the “seigaiha” (blue ocean waves) pattern is said to have originated from the costumes of the young Prince Genji performing the court dance Seigaiha as described in The Tale of Genji.
During this era, patterns also played an important role in signifying authority and social rank.
Do you know The Tale of Genji? >> The Tale of Genji: A Story Woven Over a Thousand Years
Kamakura and Muromachi Periods: Adaptation to Samurai Culture
When the samurai class rose to power during the Kamakura period, patterns began to be used for family crests (kamon) and on the ornamentation of military gear.
The butterfly was favored by samurai families as a symbol of “immortality” and was adopted into their family crests.
Additionally, the “uroko” (scale) pattern, a series of triangles, was a well-known family crest of the Hōjō clan, symbolizing protection and warding off evil.
New weaving techniques like tie-dyeing (shibori) and embroidery also arrived through trade with the Portuguese and Spanish, enriching the expression of patterns and leading to the creation of lavish costumes, such as those for Noh theater.
Edo Period: The Golden Age of Commoner Culture
The peaceful Edo period, which lasted for about 300 years, was the golden age when traditional patterns permeated the lives of common people, not just the nobility and samurai.
The trends of the time were often started by Kabuki actors.
A popular actor named Sanogawa Ichimatsu wore a pair of blue and white checkered hakama (a type of traditional trousers) on stage, and the pattern became a huge hit among women, leading it to be named the “ichimatsu” (checkered) pattern after him.
During this era, in response to the frequent sumptuary laws imposed by the shogunate, people resisted by making the linings of their seemingly plain striped and checkered kimonos gorgeous.
This aesthetic, known as “iki,” elevated wagara from mere decoration to a means of self-expression.
This historical shift suggests a “democratization” process of wagara, where patterns, which started as a means of control for the powerful, ultimately matured through the creativity and aesthetic sense of the common people.
A Guide to Major Pattern Types and Their Meanings: Designs Infused with Wishes
The meanings embedded in Japanese traditional patterns are not just abstract concepts but arise from specific observations and philosophies, such as the behavior of flora and fauna in the natural world, as well as Buddhism and mythology.
Here are some of the major patterns.
Nature Motifs
Pine, Bamboo, and Plum (Shochikubai)
Symbols of perpetual youth and vitality.
This combination of the evergreen pine, the straight-growing bamboo, and the plum that blooms in the depths of winter is a **lucky motif (kisshō mon’yo) often used during the New Year.
Cherry Blossom (Sakura)
A flower representative of Japan.
Besides the beauty of its fleeting life, it also symbolizes a bountiful harvest and prosperity, as cherry blossom viewing was originally an event to pray for a good rice crop.
Chrysanthemum (Kiku)
A symbol of the Imperial Family and an auspicious pattern signifying “perpetual youth and long life.”
Flowing Water (Ryūsui)
The purity of endlessly flowing water symbolizes purification, warding off evil, and protection against fire.
Animal Motifs
Crane (Tsuru)
As the saying goes, “a crane lives for a thousand years,” making it a symbol of longevity.
Since cranes mate for life, they also symbolize marital harmony.
Dragonfly (Tonbo)
The dragonfly, which only moves forward and never backward, came to symbolize determination without retreat.
Because of this, it was favored by samurai warlords.
It was used in armor, family crests, and clothing, and was considered a lucky motif known as the “victory insect.”
Butterfly (Chō)
The transformation from an egg into a beautiful butterfly symbolizes “immortality” and “healthy growth.”
However, its habit of flitting from flower to flower can also have ominous connotations, leading to multiple interpretations.
Dragon (Ryū)
The dragon was believed to have the power to summon clouds and bring rain, symbolizing abundant harvests and the blessings of water in an agricultural society.
The Amaryu (Rain Dragon) motif was especially used as a prayer to the water deity and as a symbol of wishing for nature’s blessings.
Geometric Motifs
Blue Ocean Waves with Chidori (Seigaiha ni Chidori)
“Seigaiha with Chidori” is a highly auspicious combination of motifs, symbolizing the wish to overcome hardships with strength and seize happiness while leading a peaceful life.s forever.”
Hemp Leaf (Asanoha)
Given the fast and strong growth of the hemp plant, this pattern is imbued with wishes for “the healthy growth of children” and “protection from evil.”
Seven Treasures (Shippō)
A pattern of endlessly interlocking circles. It is based on the seven treasures of Buddhism and signifies “harmony,” “balance,” and “infinite connections.”
Scales (Uroko)
Based on the shedding of skin by snakes and fish to protect themselves, this pattern symbolizes “warding off evil” and “renewal.”
The meanings embedded in traditional patterns reveal that the physical characteristics of things like the resilience of pine and bamboo, the shedding of a snake’s skin, and the metamorphosis of a butterfly are deeply intertwined with spiritual meanings such as “longevity,” “renewal,” and “transformation.”
This demonstrates that wagara is not just a design but a symbol of the ancient Japanese wisdom and philosophy of living in harmony with nature and drawing strength from it.
Traditional Patterns in the Modern Era: Where Tradition and Innovation Intersect
Japanese traditional patterns are not confined to conventional fields like kimonos and crafts but continue to evolve, blending into modern life.
They are actively incorporated into everyday items like washi (Japanese paper) products, folding fans, and stoles, as well as in interior decorations like wallpapers and tiles, and even in contemporary graphic design.
The reason why wagara continues to thrive in the modern age is not just because of nostalgia but because of the harmonious coexistence of functionality and design.
For example, its application to everyday items like stoles, bags, and smartphone cases is a clever strategy to bring traditional techniques and aesthetics to modern consumers.
Moreover, wagara has transcended borders and is now accepted as a universal design language.
- Influence on Global Brands
The monogram of the global luxury brand Louis Vuitton is said to have been inspired by Japanese family crests, while its Damier pattern was inspired by the ichimatsu pattern.
This is a definitive example of how the universal beauty and design of wagara are valued across eras and borders. - Fashion and Art
Western fashion designers have drawn inspiration from the unique silhouettes of kimonos and the textiles of wagara, incorporating them into their own styles. - Tattooing (Wabori)
Wagara motifs like the ryū (dragon), koi (carp), and tora (tiger) are globally popular as representative motifs of traditional Japanese tattoos, known as “wabori.”
The meanings of “strength,” “success in life,” and “renewal” embedded in each motif are also carried on in modern tattoo art.
The trademark dispute over the ichimatsu pattern worn by the protagonist in the popular manga Demon Slayer also raises new social and legal challenges about how traditional patterns, which are a public asset, can coexist with modern intellectual property concepts.
This symbolizes the inevitable friction that arises as culture evolves with the times.
Tips for Enjoying Wagara: Incorporating “Wa” (Japanese Style) into Daily Life
Wagara is not just a souvenir but a tool for many people to “experience” and “own” Japanese culture and aesthetics.
For Travelers to Japan
- Kimono Rental
By actually wearing a kimono and walking through the city, you can feel traditional patterns on your skin.
This experience is particularly special in cities with a strong traditional culture, like Kyoto or Kanazawa. - Visiting Japanese General Stores (Wazakka-ten)
It is also a great way to enjoy the beauty of wagara by picking up items at traditional craft shops and souvenir stores.
Recommended Souvenirs
- Tenugui (Traditional Japanese Towels)
Lightweight and practical, they come in a wide variety of patterns. - Folding Fans (Sensu)
Combining beautiful design with practicality, they are especially popular with international travelers. - Pottery
Teacups and mugs with traditional patterns are easy items to bring Japanese beauty into your daily life. - Chirimen Fabric Goods
Small drawstring bags (kinchaku) and coin purses (gama-guchi) made from this crepe fabric are popular for their colorful and cute designs.
How to Incorporate Wagara into Daily Life
- Fashion
Sneakers, T-shirts, and bags that incorporate wagara are also great choices. - Interior Decor
You can subtly add a touch of Japanese style to your home with Japanese-modern wallpapers, cushions, or tapestries.
Conclusion: Understanding Wagara Makes Japan More Fascinating
Japanese traditional patterns are not merely a pursuit of decorative beauty; they are a cultural legacy condensed with the spirit of the Japanese people, their wishes, social changes, and their coexistence with nature.
Understanding the profound meanings of wagara will be the start of a journey to discover the hidden stories of Japan in kimonos, pottery, and even the graphics and designs found around town.
It will give you an opportunity not only to perceive Japanese beauty with your senses but also to understand it deeply with your intellect.
Now, after reading this article, which pattern resonated with you the most?
If you have the chance, try telling the story of that pattern to someone you care about. It will surely enrich your daily life.
References
- Dictionary of Japanese interior materials: Traditional Patterns
- Kyoya: The meaning and origin of the Seigaiha pattern
- Kyoya: The meaning of checkerboard patterns
- Kamakura Koshido: Japanese patterns
