Tasting the Soul of Osaka:Exploring the Culture and Origins of Okonomiyaki
When you think of Osaka, Okonomiyaki is a dish that rivals Takoyaki in fame. More than just a flour-based food, it’s deeply rooted in Osaka’s history, culture, and the lives of its people. This time, we’ll delve into the world of Osaka’s Okonomiyaki culture, from its origins to the indispensable Okonomiyaki sauce. Prepare to be captivated and inspired to taste Okonomiyaki in Osaka for yourself!
Layering History: The Origins and Evolution of Osaka Okonomiyaki
The journey of Osaka’s Okonomiyaki to its current form spans many years and has been influenced by various food cultures. Tracing its roots is like looking into a mirror reflecting the history of Japanese cuisine.
Distant Ancestors: The Dawn of Flour-Based Foods
When exploring the origins of Okonomiyaki, it’s important to note the long history of flour-based foods. The word “Senbei,” mentioned even in the writings of the Chinese philosopher Mozi, was a staple food for the common people. However, the Senbei of that time in China was more like a crepe made from wheat flour and water, with ingredients cooked separately and wrapped inside – essentially a container for the fillings. Nevertheless, the basic method of dissolving wheat flour in water and grilling it can be seen as a precursor to Okonomiyaki. Wheat has been consumed in Japan since the Yayoi period, indicating a surprisingly long history of flour-based dishes.
“Fu no Yaki,” a Muromachi Period Tea Confectionery: Sweet Roots
During the Muromachi period, the tea master Sen no Rikyū used “Fu no Yaki” as a tea confectionery. This was made by thinly spreading and grilling a dough made from wheat flour, water, and sake, then spreading miso on it and rolling it up. It’s believed to have been a sweet treat, unlike modern Okonomiyaki. However, the cooking method of grilling a wheat flour-based dough on a flat surface is considered a prototype for Japanese Okonomiyaki. In the Edo period, “Fu no Yaki” evolved into “Sukesou Yaki,” where bean paste was sandwiched instead of miso, continuing its lineage as a sweet flour-based food. Thus, the roots of Okonomiyaki initially lay in sweet confectionery.
“Issen Yoshoku,” a Taste for the Common People: The Turn to Savory
Around the middle of the Meiji era, it’s said that the prototype of “Monjayaki” was born, and the foundation for Okonomiyaki was laid. Then, before World War II, “Issen Yoshoku” (one-sen Western food) gained popularity among children in Osaka’s penny candy stores. This was a simple dish made by thinly grilling wheat flour dissolved in water and spreading Worcestershire sauce on it. It was a popular and affordable snack. Adults at the time viewed it as just a childish treat, but during the post-war food shortages, its affordability and filling nature elevated it to a national food. Early Monjayaki dough was also sweet, mixed with honey, but later, vegetables and other ingredients were added, transforming it from a children’s snack into a more substantial food. This transition reflects the changes in flour-based food culture around that time.
Post-War Reconstruction and the Birth of “Okonomiyaki”: Evolution into a Staple Food
After the end of the war, when wheat flour was supplied as aid from the United States, “Issen Yoshoku” gradually evolved into a dish that could satisfy adults as well. Pioneers who quickly opened shops in entertainment districts added a small amount of pork to the popular Issen Yoshoku, changed its name from “Issen Yoshoku” to “Okonomiyaki,” and made it acceptable as an adult food. At the time, rice, the staple food, was still expensive, and the common people had no choice but to rely on inexpensive flour-based foods to fill their stomachs. The fact that it could be cooked on a single griddle, that seafood like squid could be used as a substitute for the scarce meat, and that women could easily run the shops on their own are thought to be factors in the rapid increase in Okonomiyaki restaurants. Around this time, cabbage, an indispensable ingredient in Okonomiyaki, began to be used, and its novelty gained popularity. Initially, the “Kasaneyaki” (layered grilling) style, where ingredients were placed on top of the grilled dough, was common, but gradually the “Mazeyaki” (mixed grilling) style, where ingredients are mixed into the batter and then grilled, also spread. In the 1960s, various ingredients began to be used depending on the region and the restaurant, and Okonomiyaki came to be supported by people of all ages, not only satisfying hunger but also appealing to adult palates. It’s said that the nationwide popularity of Okonomiyaki as a specialty of Osaka was largely due to the chain expansion of Okonomiyaki restaurants from the late 1960s to the 1970s, which promoted it as an “Osaka specialty”. Interestingly, the name “Okonomiyaki” itself is said to have originated in Tokyo in the early Showa era. At the time, shops only provided the batter and a griddle, and customers would freely grill and enjoy it according to their preferences, hence the name “Okonomiyaki” (grilled as you like it). One of the reasons why Issen Yoshoku didn’t become popular before the war is thought to be the strong consciousness of the Japanese people at the time that rice was their staple food. Okonomiyaki, which wasn’t quite a side dish or a main dish, was seen as an ambiguous food.
A Myriad of Deliciousness: Diverse Styles of Osaka Okonomiyaki
As its name suggests (“okonomi” means “as you like it”), Osaka’s Okonomiyaki comes in various styles. The basic style is “Mazeyaki” (mixed grilling), where the batter and ingredients are mixed and grilled, but each region and restaurant has its own unique twists. Using dashi (soup stock) in the batter is also a characteristic of the Osaka style, and its deliciousness has spread nationwide. There are also various variations with added shrimp, beef tendon, mochi (rice cake), and more, making the appeal of Osaka’s Okonomiyaki that you can enjoy it “as you like it”. “Butatama,” made with pork and egg, is a classic among classics in Osaka’s Okonomiyaki, with its simple ingredients highlighting the flavors of the ingredients themselves. Incidentally, the term “~tama” (egg) indicates that an egg is included, and it’s said to have been used to distinguish it from “Betayaki,” which doesn’t use egg. “Ikatama”, a combination of squid and egg, is also a widely popular classic style.
Okonomiyaki Breathing in Daily Life: A Place for Culture and Social Interaction
For the people of Osaka, Okonomiyaki is more than just a meal. It’s a staple in home cooking, as well as playing an important role as a place for eating out and socializing.
The Taste of Home: A Presence Integrated into Everyday Life
In Osaka, Okonomiyaki is a very common home-cooked meal. Each household has its own recipe, using their favorite ingredients. It’s also common for families to cook it together using a hot plate. According to one survey, about 40% of Osaka residents answered that they make Okonomiyaki at home, showing its widespread presence. Recipes using basic ingredients such as wheat flour, dashi, egg, cabbage, and tenkasu (tempura scraps) are passed down in many families. Also, in Osaka, about 40% of people have the habit of eating Okonomiyaki with rice, indicating that it’s enjoyed not only as a main dish but also as a side dish.
A Staple for Eating Out: Streets Lined with Okonomiyaki Restaurants
Within Osaka Prefecture, there are numerous unique Okonomiyaki restaurants lining the streets. From long-established shops to new ones, their styles vary greatly. In the past, the mainstream was to take out Okonomiyaki grilled at a restaurant, but since around 1975, the “eating out” style of eating inside the restaurant has become common. While some older-style Okonomiyaki restaurants still have customers grill their own, in recent years, the number of restaurants where staff grill and serve the Okonomiyaki has increased.
A Place for Social Interaction: Communication Born Around the Griddle
Okonomiyaki restaurants are not just places to eat, but also serve as social gathering spots where people come together and interact. It’s not uncommon to see families and friends spending time together around the griddle, or even strangers striking up conversations. Some Okonomiyaki restaurants even serve as small social hubs for local children.
People chatting at an okonomiyaki restaurant
A Flavor Journey Through the Prefecture: Regional Differences in Osaka Okonomiyaki
Even within Osaka Prefecture, there are differences in Okonomiyaki styles depending on the region.
Central Osaka City: Diverse “Mixed Grilling”
In the central part of Osaka City, especially in Minami (Namba/Dotonbori) and Kita (Umeda), the “Mazeyaki” (mixed grilling) style, where the batter and ingredients are mixed and grilled, is the mainstream. However, each restaurant has its own unique approach, with variations in ingredients, batter ratios, and toppings, so you can enjoy a wide variety of flavors even within the same “Mazeyaki” style. For example, some restaurants add a lot of yam to make it fluffy, while others, like “Botejyu”, feature Modern-yaki as their signature dish, or “Okaru” is popular for its mayonnaise art performance.
Senshu Region: Unique “Kashimin-yaki”
In the Senshu region in southern Osaka Prefecture, especially in Kishiwada City, a unique Okonomiyaki called “Kashimin-yaki” is popular. Unlike typical Okonomiyaki, this features chicken (older, tougher chicken) and minced beef fat as its main ingredients and is grilled in a thin batter. Its style is said to be closer to the pre-war “Yoshoku-yaki” (Western-style grilling) than to mixed grilling. Chicken alone tends to be dry, but adding beef fat adds richness and sweetness, resulting in a fragrant grilling. The seasoning often includes soy sauce in addition to Worcestershire sauce. It seems that many restaurants offering this dish are located in Kishiwada City, especially in coastal areas such as around the old Kishu Kaido road. Kishiwada has famous restaurants like “Torimi” and “Yamato”, and the fact that “Torimi” supplies chicken to many restaurants that serve Kashimin-yaki shows the reliability of its flavor. Also in the Senshu region, “Senshu Onion-yaki”, made with sweet Senshu onions, is known as a local specialty.
Other Regions: Diverse Local Flavors
In eastern Osaka, there’s “Daimon Okonomiyaki Dojo”, which offers over 100 types of creative Okonomiyaki and is a legendary presence among locals. As such, there may be other Okonomiyaki with regional characteristics in Osaka Prefecture that are not yet widely known. However, no particularly noteworthy regional differences were found in the Hokusettsu and Minamikawachi regions in this survey.
A Gastronomic Tour of Famous Restaurants: Must-Visit Okonomiyaki Spots in Osaka
Osaka boasts numerous famous Okonomiyaki restaurants that attract both locals and tourists. Here are some representative shops in each area:
Namba/Dotonbori Area
Ajinoya Honten Known for its fluffy texture, the “Ajinoya Mix” is popular.
Okaru Famous for its mayonnaise art performance, serving traditional fluffy Okonomiyaki.
Sennichimae Hatsuse A long-established restaurant with private rooms, allowing you to enjoy your meal in a relaxed atmosphere.
Dotonbori Mitsuno Famous for its “Mitsuno-yaki” made with ingredients from Kuromon Market. Said to be the originator of the Kansai-style mixed grilling.
Hozenji Sanpei A stylish restaurant in Hozenji Yokocho alley, with a wide variety of toppings.
Osaka Botejyu Honten Known as the birthplace of Modern-yaki and the originator of putting mayonnaise on Okonomiyaki.
Fukutaro Honten Especially popular for its Negiyaki (grilled scallions).
Dotonbori Ichimei You can enjoy your meal while overlooking the Dotonbori River.
Chibo Sennichimae Honten The main branch of a famous chain with locations nationwide. The “Dotonbori-yaki” is popular.
Umeda/Shin-Umeda Area
Okonomiyaki Kiji Honten A popular restaurant with long queues located in Shin-Umeda Shokudogai. Their special Modern-yaki and Butatama are popular.
Okonomiyaki Sakura A long-established restaurant that has been operating in Shin-Umeda Shokudogai for many years. The Mix Tamago (mixed egg) is popular.
Hirokazuya Higashidori A popular restaurant loved by locals, offering Okonomiyaki, Negiyaki, Yakisoba, and more.
Okonomiyaki Yukari Sonezaki Honten A long-established restaurant founded in 1950. Offers a wide variety of menu items, including the “Yukari-yaki.”
Negiyaki Yamamoto Honten/Umeda Est Shop Famous as the birthplace of Negiyaki.
The Magic That Elevates Okonomiyaki: The History and Characteristics of Okonomiyaki Sauce
When talking about the deliciousness of Okonomiyaki, Okonomiyaki sauce is absolutely indispensable. Understanding its history and characteristics will deepen your appreciation for the flavor of Okonomiyaki.
Before the Arrival of Dedicated Sauce: The Age of Worcestershire Sauce
Before dedicated Okonomiyaki sauce appeared, Worcestershire sauce, Tonkatsu sauce, or a blend of these were used. Soy sauce was also sometimes used.
Birth in Hiroshima: The Dawn of Okonomiyaki Sauce
The first dedicated Okonomiyaki sauce was born in 1947 in Hiroshima. “Otafuku Sauce”, jointly developed by an Okonomiyaki restaurant and a sauce manufacturer, was the beginning. It’s said that the early Otafuku Sauce was made by mixing Worcestershire sauce with soy sauce, sugar, and dashi, and then thickening it with potato starch. The history of Otafuku Sauce dates back to Sasaki Shoten, which was founded in Hiroshima in 1922. Initially, it was a wholesaler of soy sauce and sake, but in 1938, it began manufacturing “Otafuku Vinegar”. After the war, in 1949, it started producing Worcestershire sauce, and in 1952, to solve the problem of thin Worcestershire sauce running off when poured on Okonomiyaki, it developed a dedicated Okonomiyaki sauce. Since 1975, due to rising sugar prices, dates have been used to create a rich sweetness.
Spread to Kansai: The Entry of Oliver Sauce
The first company to release a dedicated Okonomiyaki sauce in the Kansai region was Oliver Sauce in 1968. This led to the emergence of a unique dedicated sauce even in Kansai, the heartland of Okonomiyaki.
Penetration into Households: The Establishment of Sauce Flavor
It wasn’t until the 1970s that it became common to use sauce on Okonomiyaki at home. Until then, soy sauce-flavored Okonomiyaki was also widely enjoyed.
The Key to Flavor: Characteristics and Ingredients of Osaka-Style Okonomiyaki Sauce
Osaka-style Okonomiyaki sauce is generally characterized by its sweetness and richness. Many have a flavor similar to Takoyaki sauce, and some are even spicy. While Hiroshima-style sauce is on the sweeter side, Osaka-style has a more impactful flavor. Oliver Sauce’s “Okonomiyaki Sauce Kansai” is appealing for its sweetness and richness, yet with a crisp spiciness in the aftertaste, and it’s rich in the umami of bonito and oysters. The main ingredients of Okonomiyaki sauce include vegetables (tomatoes, onions, apples, etc.), fruits (dates, etc.), sugar, vinegar, soy sauce, and spices. Adding dashi (bonito, kelp, etc.) and seafood umami like oysters creates a more complex and deep flavor. Thickening agents like cornstarch are sometimes used to achieve the desired consistency. There are also homemade recipes where you can easily recreate an authentic flavor by mixing Worcestershire sauce, ketchup, oyster sauce, sugar, etc.
Enjoying the Individuality of Flavor: Popular Sauce Brands in Osaka
Osaka is home to various brands of Okonomiyaki sauce, each with its own unique characteristics.
Oliver Sauce A leading sauce manufacturer in Kansai. Their “Okonomiyaki Sauce Kansai” is characterized by its sweetness, richness, and seafood umami.
Ikari Sauce Known as a spicy Kansai-style sauce.
Paloma Offers a sauce that can be used for both Takoyaki and Okonomiyaki. Their Okonomiyaki sauce has a mild flavor with a harmonious balance of apple sweetness and tomato acidity.
Kinmon Sauce Honpo A sauce made with dedication, produced in small quantities each day. Their “Yakisoba/Okonomiyaki Sauce” has a good balance of acidity and sweetness.
Tsudzumi Foods Features a sweet “Ichijiku (Fig) Sauce” made with figs from Minamikawachi.
Izumi Foods Offers a “Yakisoba Sauce” that is spicy yet also has sweetness.
The nationally famous Otafuku Sauce originated in Hiroshima and is widely known as a sweet sauce. Also, “Ichibiri-an Ji Sauce” is a locally popular “phantom sauce” with an exquisite balance of spices and acidity, perfect for various dishes.
Osaka’s Okonomiyaki and Its Sauce: Truly a Treasure of Food Culture
Osaka’s Okonomiyaki, nurtured as a taste for the common people throughout its long history, has evolved into diverse styles. Its warmth as a home-cooked meal, the lively atmosphere of eating out, and its role as a social gathering place are deeply rooted in the lives of the people of Osaka. And the Okonomiyaki sauce that enhances its deliciousness has regional characteristics, endlessly expanding the flavors of Okonomiyaki. Be sure to visit Osaka and taste the unique Okonomiyaki of each region and the various sauces that complement them. You will surely be captivated by its profound charm. Osaka’s Okonomiyaki is truly an art of food, condensing the history and culture of the land.
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