The large torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine, bathed in the morning sun, resting on the sea

Miyajima, a World Heritage Site: A Tale Woven by a Sanctuary Floating on the Sea

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in Culture and Traditions, Japan Tourism

A Floating Sanctuary on the Sea: An Overture of Awe

When you stand before Itsukushima Shrine or the Great Torii Gate bathed in the morning sun, you might not only be captivated by their beauty but also feel a sense of indescribable awe.
This feeling might arise from touching a scene so solemn that it’s disconnected from the clamor of everyday life – a place where light, water, and timeless history are woven together.
This special emotion isn’t something that a typical tourist spot brings; it comes from the deep history and spirituality that Miyajima itself holds.
This time, we will unravel the mystery of this sacred island, “Miyajima,” and the Itsukushima Shrine that stands upon it, from the multifaceted perspectives of its history, architecture, and harmony with nature.

Table of Contents

A World Heritage Site Bathed in the Morning Sun

Before dawn, the calm sea of Miyajima receives a single ray of light rising from the horizon, its expression changing moment by moment.
The vermilion shrine and Great Torii Gate reflect this light, emerging fantastically from the inky blackness.
The shimmering shadows the corridors cast on the water’s surface seem like a boundary connecting the divine realm and the real world.
This view, filled with sacred and mysterious beauty, never ceases to captivate people’s hearts.
The emotion it evokes transcends simple visual delight, calling forth the same sense of awe that ancient people felt for this place.

The Origins of “Miyajima,” an Island Where Gods Reside

Miyajima’s official name is “Itsukushima,” which means “the island where gods are revered.”
As this name suggests, the island has been a sacred place of worship since ancient times.
The reason Itsukushima Shrine was built in such a unique location – on the sea – is deeply rooted in this ancient belief.
Because the entire island was worshipped as a sacred deity, people avoided desecrating this divine area with human hands.
Instead of building the shrine on land, they constructed it on the sandy shore, where it would be subject to the ebb and flow of the tide.

This philosophy can also be seen in the ancient custom where people would not set foot in the divine area but would cross under the Great Torii Gate in a small boat from the opposite shore to visit the shrine.
The Itsukushima Shrine enshrines the Three Munakata Goddesses (Ichikishima-hime no Mikoto, Tagori-hime no Mikoto, and Takitsu-hime no Mikoto), known as the guardians of maritime safety, and their worship spread to the arts and economy.
This ancient Japanese spirit of respecting the power of nature and living with its blessings is the most essential philosophy of Itsukushima Shrine.
The harmony of the sea and the architecture became a key factor in its recognition as a World Heritage site in 1996.

The Dream and Glory of Taira no Kiyomori

A Faith Entrusted with a Clan’s Destiny

While Itsukushima Shrine had been a site of worship since ancient times, it became widely known during the late Heian period, in the era of the age’s favored son, Taira no Kiyomori.
Around 1168, Kiyomori became the first warrior to hold the office of Grand Minister, and it is said that he used his immense power to build the seaside shinden-zukuri (aristocratic residential style) shrine that we see today.
According to the Tale of the Heike, in addition to the political and economic background of controlling the Seto Inland Sea as governor of Aki Province and acquiring vast wealth, Kiyomori’s faith deepened after he received a “dream oracle” that he would reach the highest rank if he built Itsukushima Shrine.

Kiyomori’s faith was not merely personal; it also had a strong political and strategic meaning.
By building a magnificent shrine on the sea, bringing aristocratic culture like court music and dance from Kyoto and Osaka to Miyajima, and dedicating exquisite artworks and crafts, the Taira clan flaunted their overwhelming economic power and cultural sophistication to both domestic and foreign audiences.
This was a brilliant strategy to solidify the status of Itsukushima Shrine in maritime traffic and to use its religious authority to the fullest to ensure the prosperity of his clan.

A Prayer Etched in the Heike Nokyo Sutras

Among the many artworks and crafts that Taira no Kiyomori dedicated to Itsukushima Shrine, the Heike Nokyo (Sutras of the Taira Clan), a National Treasure, particularly speaks to the depth of his devotion.
This work begins with a personal prayer written by Kiyomori himself and contains sutras meticulously copied by the entire Taira clan, expressing their deep gratitude for the prosperity they believed came from the shrine’s divine protection.
While it is usually not displayed to the public, it is specially exhibited twice a year, allowing people to appreciate its intricate beauty.
Additionally, a replica is on permanent display at the Treasure Hall, where visitors can feel the strength of the Taira clan’s collective faith.
This dedication, symbolizing the unity of the clan, became a strong spiritual foundation that ensured Itsukushima Shrine’s prestige did not fade even after the Taira clan’s demise.

Tracing the Footsteps of Taira no Kiyomori

The fact that Kiyomori was not just a powerful historical figure but also a deeply beloved presence among the people of Miyajima is evident from the traces of his life that remain on the island today.
In 1945, on the 770th anniversary of Kiyomori’s death, the Kiyomori Shrine was built by the local people in a sign of their affection and respect for the man who accomplished the construction of Itsukushima Shrine.
Though it is in a quiet location and is not as well-known as Itsukushima Shrine, its existence proves that Kiyomori’s achievement was not just a political success but a cultural legacy deeply rooted in the local community.
Furthermore, the modern-day nighttime illuminations are said to be based on the ancient story of Kiyomori lighting up the shrine and Great Torii Gate with torches, symbolizing how his achievements have been passed down through time.

The Mystery of the Ebbing and Flowing Tides

The Secret of the “Floating” Great Torii Gate

The Great Torii Gate, a symbol of Miyajima, is the ninth one since the time of Taira no Kiyomori and was rebuilt in 1875.
This gate has an astonishing structure: it is not fixed in the seabed but stands upright solely by its own weight (approximately 60 tons).
This is a rare example of advanced architectural techniques being born from faith, as it faithfully adheres to the ancient belief of avoiding driving piles into the sacred island.
The gate is coated with a paint called “Komeitan,” which has rust-proofing and anti-corrosion effects, maintaining its beauty and durability.
Additionally, the plaque on the Great Torii Gate has two different inscriptions: “嚴島神社” (Itsukushima Shrine) when viewed from the sea and “伊都岐島神社” (Itsukushima Shrine) when viewed from Miyajima.
This is a profound and clever design that symbolizes the gate’s role in standing at the boundary between land and sea – the boundary between the human world and the divine realm.

The Ingenuity of the Floating Shrine

The floorboards of the Itsukushima Shrine, which appears to float on the sea at high tide, have small gaps in them.
These gaps are not just for decoration.
They are a clever mechanism to prevent the shrine from floating up like a boat under the buoyant force of the seawater at high tide.
This architecture embodies the philosophy of “coexisting with nature” – not resisting its power but instead making it an ally.
The shrine, which sits on the seawater, is like a giant ship, reflecting a unique Japanese aesthetic and spirituality that says we should “follow” nature rather than control it.

The Mystery of the Ebbing and Flowing Tides

One of the most captivating experiences for visitors to Miyajima is seeing Itsukushima Shrine change with the tides.
The tide rises and falls twice a day, roughly every six hours.
When the tide level is around 250 cm or higher, the Great Torii Gate appears to float on the sea, creating a mystical view as if you are visiting the shrine from a boat on the water.
Conversely, when the tide level is around 100 cm or lower, the tide recedes, and you can walk to the base of the gate, feeling its immense size and structure up close.

The “Kagami no Ike” (Mirror Pond), located near the east corridor of Itsukushima Shrine, is another mystical place that appears only at low tide.
This pond was counted as one of the Eight Scenic Views of Itsukushima during the Edo period and was the subject of many waka poems and haiku.
Its appearance, visible only at low tide, is like catching a glimpse of Miyajima’s “true face,” offering new discoveries and emotions with every visit.

Preserving Faith and Modern “World Heritage”

A Universal Value That Transcends Time

Even after the demise of the Taira clan, the worship of Itsukushima Shrine did not wane.
This was due to the cultural and historical value that Kiyomori built and the continuous efforts of countless people who have protected its dignity since.
The five-story pagoda was built during the Muromachi period (1407), a major restoration was undertaken by the Mōri clan in 1571, and the shrine was faithfully rebuilt after a fire in the 13th century.
These efforts by generations of successors have kept Itsukushima Shrine a “living heritage” to this day.

In 1996, Itsukushima Shrine was registered as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site.
This recognition was not just an evaluation of its architectural beauty.
In addition to its cultural and historical value as a “harmony of nature and architecture” and an “outstanding architectural landscape that incorporates the shinden-zukuri style of the Heian period,” it was highly praised for being an important cultural asset that shows the history of the fusion and separation of Shinto and Buddhism in Japan.
The World Heritage designation proves that Itsukushima Shrine is a place of universal value that connects the past, present, and future.

The Elegance Woven by Court Music and Traditional Arts

Itsukushima Shrine continues to function as a center of faith and culture not just through its architecture but also through its traditional performing arts.
Court music and dance (bugaku), which are said to have been introduced by Taira no Kiyomori from Shitennoji Temple in Osaka, are still performed about 10 times a year on the elevated stage with the sea as a backdrop after religious festivals.
The dancers in their glittering costumes create a graceful atmosphere as if they have time-traveled to the Heian period, leaving a deep impression on the audience.
A Noh stage and a Kagura hall also exist, where Japan’s traditional arts continue to live on in this sacred space.

The Charm of “Miyajima” Beyond Itsukushima Shrine

Miyajima’s appeal is not limited to Itsukushima Shrine.
The shrine is part of the World Heritage site, and the island’s highest peak, Mount Misen, is also part of it.
The first Prime Minister of Japan, Hirobumi Itō, is said to have exclaimed, “The true value of the Three Views of Japan is in the view from the summit.”
You can easily enjoy the spectacular scenery from Mount Misen by taking a ropeway.

Additionally, Daishoin Temple, a 10-minute walk from the exit of Itsukushima Shrine, is a place of deep history.
It is where Toyotomi Hideyoshi prayed for the safety of maritime travel during his Korean campaigns.
The temple houses the “Nami-kiri Fudo Myo-o” (Wave-cutting Fudo Myo-o) statue.
The temple grounds also offer spiritual experiences, such as the “Kaidan Meguri” (Staircase of Enlightenment) and “Henjo-kutsu” (Cave of Universal Illumination), allowing visitors to deeply feel the island’s aspect as a Buddhist sacred site.
Furthermore, the “Toyokuni Shrine,” also known as “Senjokaku” (The Hall of 1000 Tatami Mats) because of its vast size, is another must-see spot.

Practical Guide to Planning Your Trip

Access from Hiroshima Station to Miyajima

There are three main routes from Hiroshima Station to Miyajima.
Be sure to understand the time required, cost, and characteristics of each to choose the best route for your travel style.

Transportation Method	Approximate Time	Approximate Cost	Characteristics
JR + Ferry	~45 min	~620 yen	The fastest and most convenient route.
Hiroden (Streetcar) + Ferry	~80 min	~440 yen	A more relaxed journey, enjoying the city scenery.
High-Speed Ferry	~45 min	~2,200 yen	Direct access to Miyajima without transfers.

*The cost may not include the Miyajima Visitor Tax of 100 yen.

Map of Hatsukaichi City and Miyajima

Knowing the High and Low Tide Times

One of the highlights of a Miyajima trip is enjoying the changing appearance of Itsukushima Shrine with the tides.
It is highly recommended that you check the tide table on the Miyajima Tourism Association website before your visit.

Tide Level	Condition of Itsukushima Shrine & Great Torii
Above 250 cm	The Great Torii appears to be floating on the sea.
Below 100 cm	You can walk to the base of the Great Torii.
Low Tide	The “Kagami no Ike” (Mirror Pond) near the east corridor of Itsukushima Shrine appears.

Itsukushima Shrine Admission

The opening hours of Itsukushima Shrine vary by season, but they are typically from 6:30 AM to 6:00 PM.
The admission fee is 300 yen for adults, 200 yen for high school students, and 100 yen for middle and elementary school students.
A combined ticket with the Treasure Hall is 500 yen for adults, allowing you to also view historical artworks.

Enjoying Delicious Local Cuisine in Miyajima

When you visit Miyajima, you must also savor its unique food culture.
Anagomeshi (conger eel rice) is a must-try.
The long-established restaurant Ueno, which has been in business for over 100 years, is known for its elegant and fluffy taste.
Since it can get very crowded during lunchtime, it is a smart choice to make a reservation by phone beforehand or get a bento box for takeout.
Miyajima is also a famous area for oysters, thanks to its excellent aquaculture environment, so you can enjoy fresh seafood like grilled oysters.
For souvenirs and street food, the Omotesando Shopping Street, lined with many shops, is the perfect place to explore.

If you have the opportunity to visit Japan, please consider including Miyajima in your travel itinerary.
I’m sure you will be able to experience Japan’s history and mystery up close.