The Silent Queen: Unearthing the Mysteries of the Hashihaka Kofun
At the dawn of Japanese history, as the nation began to emerge from the mists of mythology, a power arose in a corner of the Nara Basin that would lay the foundation for the future state of Japan.
The undeniable proof of this power still lies upon the plains of Yamato: a cluster of colossal keyhole-shaped tombs.
This article introduces the first, largest, and most enigmatic of these monuments – the Hashihaka Kofun.
Its overwhelming scale and the mystical stories surrounding the figure said to be entombed within are the very essence of ancient historical romance.
Table of Contents
A Monument from the Age of Gods: The First Great Kofun
The Kofun period (roughly 3rd to 7th centuries CE) is named for the gigantic burial mounds, or kofun, that the rulers of the time built as symbols of their power.
Among the thousands of these tombs scattered across Japan, the Hashihaka Kofun in Sakurai, Nara, holds a special place as the prototype for the standardized, massive keyhole-shaped tombs (zenkō-hōen-fun).
This unique shape, resembling a keyhole, combines a rectangular section for ceremonies and a circular section for the burial.
The appearance of Hashihaka Kofun marked a turning point, establishing this design as the standard model for later imperial tombs.
Its scale defies modern imagination.
At approximately 280 meters in total length and with its rear mound rising 25 meters high, it is longer than the famed WWII battleship Yamato.
This was no mere grave; it was an unprecedented display of power, a monument announcing the birth of a centralized authority capable of uniting the regional clans – the early Yamato Kingdom.
A grand legend surrounds its construction.
The Nihon Shoki (Chronicles of Japan) states that it was “built by men by day and by gods by night,” adding to its mystique.
It is also said that the stones used in its construction were transported from Mount Nijō (anciently Ōsaka-yama) in Osaka, about 15 kilometers away, by people forming a human chain to pass them hand-to-hand.
This account suggests the colossal undertaking was achieved by a formidable power capable of mobilizing thousands of laborers.
The Legend of the Chopsticks: The Official Story
Today, the Hashihaka Kofun is managed by the Imperial Household Agency under the official name “Oichi no Haka.”
It is designated as the tomb of Princess Yamatototohi-momoso-hime no Mikoto, a daughter of the 7th Emperor, Kōrei.
Because of this official status, scholarly archaeological excavation is strictly forbidden, and its interior remains shrouded in deep mystery.
The tomb’s common name, “Hashihaka” (Chopstick Tomb), originates from a tragic myth of a divine marriage recorded in the Nihon Shoki.
Princess Momoso was married to the handsome god Omononushi no Okami, who would only visit her at night.
Longing to see his true form, she pleaded with him.
The god agreed, saying, “Tomorrow morning I shall be in your comb box.
But you must not be startled.”
The next day, the princess opened the box to find a beautiful little snake.
When she cried out in shock, the god, feeling shamed, returned to his home on Mount Miwa.
Deeply regretting her actions, the princess took a chopstick and stabbed herself, ending her life. This sorrowful tale is said to be the origin of the name “Chopstick Tomb.”
This legend is more than a simple love story.
It is a political and religious declaration that forges an unbreakable link between two crucial sacred sites in this region: the Hashihaka Kofun and Omiwa Shrine.
Princess Momoso, said to rest in the tomb, is a princess of the Yamato court.
Her husband, the great god Omononushi, is the native deity whose physical form is Mount Miwa itself.
The myth, therefore, depicts a “sacred marriage” between the new rulers, the Yamato Kingdom (the princess), and the most powerful spiritual entity of the land (the God of Miwa).
Through this union, the Yamato court established itself as the legitimate ruler accepted by the local god, while the God of Miwa’s divinity was elevated through its connection to the imperial family.
The two physically separate locations are bound together through myth as the core of a single power structure.
This perspective is essential to understanding why this area is considered a “power spot.”
The Enigma of Himiko: Lost Tomb of a Queen?
Meanwhile, a more thrilling theory exists regarding the identity of the person buried in Hashihaka Kofun: that it is the tomb of Himiko, the mysterious queen who is said to have ruled the land of Wa in the 3rd century.
Queen Himiko never appears in Japanese historical texts; her existence is recorded only in a Chinese history, the Wei Zhi (“Records of Wei”), making her one of the earliest international figures in Japanese history.
The evidence supporting the “Hashihaka = Himiko’s Tomb” theory is compelling:
- Chronological Match
The Wei Zhi records Himiko’s death around 248 CE.
Carbon-14 dating of pottery excavated from Hashihaka’s moat estimates the tomb’s construction to be between 240 and 260 CE – a striking overlap. - Similar Scale
The Wei Zhi describes Himiko’s tomb as being “over 100 paces in diameter.”
The diameter of Hashihaka’s circular mound is about 160 meters, which could closely match the Chinese account when converted from the ancient “pace” (bu) unit of measurement. - Location
The Hashihaka Kofun is situated within the Makimuku archaeological site, which is considered by many to be the leading candidate for Yamatai, the capital city ruled by Himiko.
However, there are strong counterarguments to this theory:
- Shape Mismatch
The Chinese character used for tomb, zhǒng (冢), is generally interpreted to mean a simple round mound, which differs from Hashihaka’s keyhole shape. - Lack of Human Sacrifice
The same text states that “over 100 male and female attendants” were buried with Himiko.
No evidence of such large-scale sacrificial burial has been found around Hashihaka. - Dating Controversy
The carbon-14 dating results and their interpretations remain a subject of debate among scholars.
Before the tomb, sealed tight by the Imperial Household Agency, the truth remains silent.
Was it the first queen of Wa, or a tragic princess?
Visitors can only stand before the green hill rising beyond the moat’s placid waters and ponder one of ancient Japan’s greatest mysteries.
Profile of the Royal Tomb: Hashihaka Kofun
- Location
Hashinaka, Sakurai City, Nara Prefecture (within the Makimuku archaeological site) - Tomb Shape
Keyhole-shaped tumulus (zenpō-kōen-fun) - Period
Early Kofun period - Estimated Construction Date
Mid to late 3rd century AD.
Radiocarbon dating suggests a range of 240-260 AD. - Scale:
- Total Length: approx. 280m
- Rear circle diameter: approx. 160m
- Rear circle height: approx. 25m
- Officially Designated Occupant
Princess Yamatototohimomosohime-no-mikoto - Prominent Counter-theory
Himiko, the queen of Yamatai-koku
The Mountain of a God: Omiwa Shrine, Japan’s Primordial Power Spot
While the Hashihaka Kofun speaks of the past in silence, nearby lies a place that thrives as a living center of faith: Omiwa Shrine. Here, we explore its unique form – often called the prototype of the Japanese shrine – and the decisive role it played in the formation of the nascent Japanese state.
The Shrine Without a Hall: Ancient Worship of Mount Miwa
Omiwa Shrine (Ōmiwa-jinja) is widely considered one of Japan’s oldest shrines, as its founding is recorded in the nation’s foundational mytho-histories, the Kojiki and the Nihon Shoki.
Its most distinctive feature is the absence of a honden (main hall), the building that typically houses the shrine’s sacred object of worship.
The reason is that the beautifully conical Mount Miwa, which rises directly behind the shrine, is itself worshipped as the shintai – the sacred body in which the god resides.
This practice, known as kannabi or shintaisan worship, represents one of the most primal forms of Shinto: the veneration of natural objects. Instead of a main hall, worshippers pray from a haiden (hall of worship) that faces the sacred mountain directly.
This arrangement preserves a form of prayer that predates the common use of shrine architecture.
Between the hall of worship and the sacred mountain stands a unique mitsu-dorii (three-in-one torii gate), a design seen almost nowhere else.
It functions as the sacred gateway to the divine realm and is considered a critically important structure, serving in place of a main hall.
The Serpent God and the Yamato Kingdom: Consolidating Power Through Faith
The principal deity of Omiwa Shrine is Omononushi no Okami, a powerful god of nation-building, agriculture, and medicine, who is often said to appear in the form of a serpent.
He is also considered to be a different aspect (the gentle and benevolent spirit) of the god Okuninushi no Kami, famously enshrined at Izumo Taisha.
The relationship between Omiwa Shrine and the Yamato court was cemented by a legend from the era of the 10th Emperor, Sujin, as recorded in the Nihon Shoki.
At the time, the country was plagued by epidemics and suffering.
When the emperor performed divination, it was revealed that the turmoil was a curse from the great god Omononushi residing on Mount Miwa. The god appeared in a dream and proclaimed, “Have my descendant, Ota-tataneko, worship me.
Then the country will be pacified.”
The emperor sent out a decree to find Ota-tataneko.
Once found, he was appointed as the head priest to perform the sacred rites.
When he offered sacred sake (miki) according to the god’s instructions, the plague immediately subsided, and peace returned to the land.
This story is more than a tale of a religious miracle; it is a masterful political statement demonstrating how the Yamato court established its legitimacy.
In the land of Yamato, there existed an ancient and powerful local deity, Omononushi of Miwa.
The newly risen Yamato rulers chose not to conquer this god with military force, but rather to position themselves as “the only power capable of appeasing this fierce god and worshipping him correctly.”
The story of Emperor Sujin quelling the god’s curse served as proof that the emperor possessed the sacred qualification to understand the divine will and mediate between the gods and the people.
In essence, the Yamato court skillfully co-opted an existing, powerful spiritual authority and made it the foundation of its own political authority.
The influence that Omiwa Shrine had on the Yamato court was precisely this role of providing mythic and ritualistic endorsement of the court’s legitimacy.
The “power” of this shrine is not merely an abstract spiritual energy, but the historical force that gave birth to a dynasty.
Receiving the God’s Power: A Tour of Blessings on the Grounds
Visitors to Omiwa Shrine today can still seek its divine favor.
- Healing Water for Ailments
At the auxiliary Sai Shrine, located deeper within the grounds, visitors can drink the kusuri-mizu (medicinal water) that flows from Mount Miwa.
It has been believed to cure all manner of illnesses since ancient times, and many pilgrims come to draw this water and pray for good health. - The God of Sake Brewing
Stemming from the legend of Emperor Sujin, Omiwa Shrine is also deeply venerated as the god of sake brewing.
The large balls of cedar branches (sugidama) often seen hanging under the eaves of breweries across Japan are made from the cedar of Mount Miwa and signal that a new batch of sake is ready. - The Luck-Bringing Stroking Rabbit
Because Omononushi is linked to the myth of the “Hare of Inaba,” a statue of a “stroking rabbit” (nade-usagi) can be found on the grounds.
It is said that stroking it will improve your fortune, and rubbing a part of the rabbit that corresponds to an ailment on your own body will relieve the pain.
A Pilgrimage Through Time: Touring the Makimuku Kofun Cluster
After visiting the two core sites of Hashihaka Kofun and Omiwa Shrine, the journey expands onto a much broader historical stage.
This entire region is an open-air museum documenting the process by which Japan’s first unified state was born.
Necropolis of the First Kings: Japan’s First Capital
The area where Hashihaka Kofun is located is known as the Makimuku archaeological site.
This was a vast, planned settlement built around the 3rd century CE, which many researchers believe was Japan’s first “city” and the capital of the early Yamato Kingdom.
This expansive site contains a dense concentration of keyhole-shaped tombs, with Hashihaka as their leader.
Collectively known as the Makimuku Kofun Cluster, they are thought to be the tombs of the kings who ruled from this first capital – a royal necropolis. Walking this land is an experience akin to strolling through a valley of the kings.
The Forerunners: Kofun Before Hashihaka
The Hashihaka Kofun did not appear out of nowhere.
Prior to its construction, a series of tombs known as “Makimuku-style keyhole tombs” – characterized by their smaller, less-developed rectangular sections – were built here.
They are precious artifacts showing the evolutionary process that led to the giant keyhole tombs.
Two tombs are of particular note:
- Hokenoyama Kofun
At about 80 meters long, this tomb is dated to the mid-3rd century, preceding Hashihaka.
Excavations have revealed Japan’s first-known dual-structure burial chamber of wood and stone, as well as a wealth of grave goods, including Chinese-made bronze mirrors, numerous bronze and iron arrowheads, and swords.
This concretely shows that a chieftain with considerable wealth and military power existed just before power was fully consolidated by the ruler of Hashihaka. - Makimuku Ishizuka Kofun
At about 96 meters long, this tomb is considered among the oldest in the cluster (early 3rd century).
It has the typical “Makimuku-style” shape and provides a vital clue for tracing the origins of the keyhole-tomb form.
The existence of these tombs tells the story of a major historical turning point.
An era with multiple tombs in the 80-115 meter class, like Ishizuka and Hokenoyama, likely indicates a period when several powerful chieftains stood side-by-side, competing for supremacy.
The luxurious grave goods of Hokenoyama are proof they had secured trade routes with the continent and possessed advanced technology.
However, the Hashihaka Kofun, built immediately after, is approximately 280 meters long, overwhelming its predecessors in scale.
This was not a gradual change, but a “quantum leap” in the power structure.
It signifies that one group surpassed all its rivals and emerged as an absolute ruler capable of mobilizing an entirely different order of magnitude of resources and labor.
The age of warring chiefs was over, and the age of a single king had begun.
Therefore, a tour of the Makimuku Kofun Cluster is not just about looking at tombs.
It is an experience of tracing, with your own feet, the epic saga of the birth of the Yamato Kingdom, written in earth and stone.
| Kofun Name | Estimated Construction Period | Total Length (m) | Significance |
| Makimuku Ishizuka | Early to mid-3rd century | 96 | One of the oldest Makimuku-style kofun. Key to the form’s origin. |
| Hokenoyama | Mid-3rd century | 80 | Rich grave goods. Shows the power of pre-Hashihaka chieftains. |
| Makimuku Katsuyama | Before mid-3rd century | 110 | One of the large-scale tombs preceding Hashihaka. |
| Hashihaka | Mid-to-late 3rd century | 278 | The first “colossal” keyhole tomb. Symbol of the leap in power and state formation. |
A Journey to Ancient Yamato: A Practical Guide
For readers inspired by this article to plan their own journey into antiquity, here is all the practical information you will need.
Planning Your Trip: Itinerary and Best Time to Visit
- Best Seasons
Spring (late March-May, for cherry blossoms) and autumn (October-November, for autumn leaves) are highly recommended for their mild climate and beautiful scenery.
A special sake festival (Jōzō Anzen Kigan-sai) is held at Omiwa Shrine in November, offering a unique atmosphere.
Try to avoid major holidays like Golden Week, as they can be very crowded. - Access to Sakurai
- From Tokyo: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen (bullet train) to Kyoto or Nagoya Station.
From Kyoto, transfer to the Kintetsu or JR lines via Yamato-Yagi Station to reach Sakurai Station.
The journey takes about 3.5 to 4.5 hours. - From Osaka/Kyoto: Both Kintetsu and JR lines run frequently, making access very easy.
From Osaka (Namba or Uehommachi Stations) or Kyoto, you can reach Sakurai Station or the closer Miwa Station in about 30 to 60 minutes.
- From Tokyo: Take the Tokaido Shinkansen (bullet train) to Kyoto or Nagoya Station.
- Getting Around Sakurai
The main spots are closest to JR Miwa Station (for Omiwa Shrine) and JR Makimuku Station (for Hashihaka Kofun and the Makimuku cluster).
Renting a bicycle is highly recommended for efficiently touring the scattered tombs. Local bus routes also connect the various sites.
Recommended 1-Day “Power Spot” Itinerary
- Morning (The Spiritual Core)
Alight at JR Miwa Station.
Walk to Omiwa Shrine. Stroll through the solemn grounds, get some medicinal water at the Sai Shrine, and see the giant sugidama in front of the worship hall. - Lunch
Enjoy the local specialty, Miwa sōmen noodles, at one of the nearby restaurants.
Enjoying cold sōmen in a charming, renovated old house is a special treat. - Afternoon (Historical Mystery & Archaeology)
Take the train one stop to JR Makimuku Station.
First, head to the Hashihaka Kofun.
Walk the perimeter path around the massive moat to appreciate its scale and ponder the mysteries of Himiko and Princess Momoso.
Afterwards, visit the Sakurai City Archaeological Center (near Makimuku Station) to see artifacts excavated from the tombs and deepen your understanding.
If time and energy permit, a bike ride to Hokenoyama and Makimuku Ishizuka Kofun is an excellent addition.
Kofun-Visting Etiquette: The Allure of Inaccessibility
When visiting kofun, especially imperial-class tombs, there is one crucial point to understand: most of them, particularly imperial mausolea like Hashihaka Kofun, are managed by the Imperial Household Agency, fenced off, and cannot be entered or climbed.
If you arrive expecting to explore the interior like an Egyptian pyramid, you may be disappointed.
However, this very inaccessibility is part of the allure of kofun exploration.
Once you understand why you cannot enter (they are sacred imperial gravesites), you can reframe the experience.
The mystery fuels the imagination.
The proper way to appreciate these sites is to walk the paths around the moat, feel their overwhelming scale, their harmony with the surrounding landscape, and the quiet dignity they have radiated for over 1,700 years.
To complement this experience, consider these tips:
- Utilize Museums
The “inside” of the kofun – the grave goods excavated from them and detailed replicas of burial chambers – can be seen in regional museums.
The Sakurai City Archaeological Center is a must-see for this purpose. - Visit Kofun You Can Enter
Nara, the heartland of the Yamato Kingdom, has many kofun outside of the imperial designations that you can enter
For example, the Ishibutai Kofun in Asuka, or the Monju-in Nishi and Tani-kubi Kofun in Sakurai, are precious sites where you can observe the stone chamber structures up close.
Combining these visits will give you a much deeper understanding of kofun culture as a whole. - Pay Your Respects
All kofun are the burial sites of ancient people and are sacred places.
Obey the rules, maintain a quiet and respectful demeanor, and appreciate them with reverence.
Touching the Soul of Japan
A journey through the land of Sakurai is more than mere historical sightseeing.
It is a walk through a landscape where Japan’s foundational myths, earliest political history, and enduring spiritual culture are inscribed into the earth itself.
To feel the ancient prayers in the sacred forest of Omiwa Shrine, to witness the transition of power by touring the Makimuku kofun cluster, and to stand before the Hashihaka Kofun and confront one of history’s greatest mysteries – this journey promises every visitor an unforgettable experience, a chance to feel the weight of history under their own feet and to touch the very origins of the nation of Japan.
Reference Site
- The Museum,Archaeological Institute of Kashihara,Nara Prefecture: Archaeological Sites of Yamato
- Nara Prefecture Historical and Cultural Resources Databas: Hashihaka Kofun
- Sakurai City Tourism Association: Hashihaka Kofun (Hashinaka, Sakurai City) Imperial tomb
- Wikipedia: Omiwa Shrine
- Kokugakuin University Classical Culture Project: Ōkuninushinokami
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